Saturday, May 3, 2014

Japan - Fuji; By Boat, By Bike, By Beach

Fuji trip day two, another long day.

According to Go's cycling computer, we put in 185 km of work yesterday. Not bad considering the heavy luggage. Day two should be worse, our Taiko instructor warned, "beware of the hills once you cross into the next prefecture."

Well, what can we do? We put our heads down and kept cranking out km's.

Sleep last night was thoroughly good, I never heard the peacocks squawk once until I woke the next morning searching for my watch to read the time. 6:17. I heard Go shuffling outside his tent. Damn, where's my sister who could sleep till 9:00 like a professional?

A little resentfull but excited to meet the day, I got up and began my morning stretches as I packed. Thankfully we had camped only one km away from the dock whose ferry would take us into the start of day two. Goodbye Toba city, you will be missed.

The only other ferry boat I've taken in Japan was off Shikoku island towards Wakayama where, incidentally, Go's family lives. The ferry boat rides, then and like today, are fun. Tables are there for you to eat, happy theme park-esque music plays in the background, chairs face off the edges of the vessel for you to enjoy the view outside, and, as in our case, comfy chairs are made out in rows for anyone to sit down inside and relax. Fortunately, so few people made that 8:00 boat that Go and I had the opportunity and space lay out horizontally across five seats and take a nap. I let the gentle vibration of a far off motor calm me into sleep. When we awoke, we were on new land, new prefecture, but heading the same direction. 

The roads and weather seem to have recieved my reservations; no traffic and a beautiful sun lit day. 

We cruised up and down the slopes of the coastline, amusing ourselves that our Taiko instructor was merely teasing us last night about the hills. These were easy and the view distracted us away from any mild intolerance cycling up hill may have brought.  

Even though I saw many flora along the way, I had to stop for this one. Been a long time since I've seen feral cacti. Go knew what a cactus was yet almost didn't believe me when I told him that my people make candy and tequila from different kinds of cacti. Fun fact.

Day two, still having a blast!

The roads were lonely enough today that we could cycle next to each other and chat against the breeze. One among many topics included my remark on how this road reminded me a lot like the ones in Taiwan. Though I've never been to Taiwan, I have scrolled through Go's pictures many times (you'll remember that he too has toured Asia). He agreed that this part of Japan is very similar, which opened a conversation into the similarities and differences between land, culture, law, and customs in South East Asian countries. His English is not as limited as he thinks.

Here is probably the best piece of advice I can give to anyone wanting to cycle Japan: know your Michi No Eki's. That's Japanese for government sponsored roadside station. Built more for cars, truck drivers, and motor bike tourers (although anyone is welcome), these locations usually spring up along the coast lines to coincide with preemptive view points to pose at, or sandy beaches to walk over. In any case, most have restaurants and wifi, all have vending machines and toilets and at least one place to pitch a tent. This one, as you can see, had plenty of room. However, we're on the clock here. No time rest too long, so we peddled on.

A quick ice creme break. Nothing fancy, not more than a buck. Just some quick cheap energy to get going to the end of the day after a speedy bathroom break. 

And I'm glad I did. Next up, our instructor's warning came back to fulfill it's prophecy. That is, we mistook the morning exchanges of ups and downs to be the run of our friend's warning. We were wrong.

Tea plantations. You know you're high up when you see tea plantations. 

I scooped this pick with very tired legs because we had just climbed the 10% grade mountain to this point. Rough. But then again, Fuji's average is posted at 10% so concider this good training. Tired and hungry, wishing I had boiled some eggs as a snack, we began the desent back down to a little town where we could spot a nice park on our maps.

Our bikes taking rest at the top of a cold mountain.

So cold was the mountain (and way down) that even though we didn't feel dirty, we opted for time at the local sento (public bath house). Which, how I understand it, is the correct reason. So maybe bathhouse is an inexact word to use. Yes, we go to clean our bodies. However, that is first done off to the side, so that you are all clean once you enter the baths. And that's really the point. Anyone can get clean in a shower at home. I go to sentos for the saunas and jacuzzis. Point is, I was cold and now I'm warm =)

Our campsight location. Like the Michi No Eki we visited earlier, this place had a large open field to welcome our small tents. 

As the sun set, I looked at the map. We had really gone far in two days, i have to remember to reward ourselves diligently once this is over.

Another long day. According to Go's cycling computer, we moved out feet at an average of 21km an hour. So that's 185 km's on day one and 147 on day two! 

I know now why they call him Go! Tomorrow will be much shorter. All
We have is a mere 60 km to the city at Mount Fuji's base, Fujinomiya.

Much love my friends, 
-A

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