Japan - Commute To Work

Despite the late night celebrations had last night, I woke up early. Or at least earlier than any else in our four maned camp sight. 

We had talked about everything last night, traveling cyclists are extremely observant. We spent hours spilling discussions over bike frames, quirky components, women, politics, best routes in Japan, funny stories, injuries, food, a little philosophy, and what beer best remedies soar muscles. Though, as cyclists tend to think, we frequently came back to what we'd do tomorrow. Forecast: rain.

Yoshi is pretty set in taking off even though his bike suffered a spoke injury. 

The Japanese man who crashed with us thanked us and left quietly under the morning dawn.

Jason is going to let his leg heal a few days in a hotel and wait out the rain. 

As for me, I feel fine. I will also strive for a hotel room for shelter, albeit in a westward city out from Imabari. 

Imabari to Matsuyama

Jason and I shooting the breeze as I give my bike a once over. Before leaving on my own again, I wanted to true my wheels, pump my tires, and tighten my rear brakes.

Sometime before noon good wishes were had and hugs handed out out. These times are never goodbyes, as we know, more like "see you later."  I invited then all to stay with me in Tosa City were I have a new job and apartment waiting for me.

Right after I left the camp sight I passed a McDinalds with what else, some traveling cyclists. Had to stop in and say a quick hello. 

Unfortunatly, I was caught between cities - stuck along the narrow coast road with no shelter and still a good distance to go before Matsuyama.

What else could I do? I had to keep going until I came across a small town with a mini convenience store for shelter. I pulled under the open roof, shook off the dripping wetness that permeated my shorts, shirt and shoes like a dog after a bath, then, as elegantly as I could, entered the store shop with mud stains along my legs, back, and face, as if nothing was wrong and bought a nice hot cup of coffee. 

With nothing to do after drying myself off with a clean quick dry towel from my rear pannier, I starred at the rain and thought of Blade Runner. The rain catalyzes my memories most often. Drifting in thoughts of science fiction movies and books I read so long ago, I didn't realize that an hour had quicky passed. I'd better to cut my losses and move on with the last part of the day, things weren't getting any drier. 

When I did make it to Matsuyama, soaking wet, amalgamating drips of sweat and water running down my face, chin, and back, the hotel I aimed for told me they were booked. Not a single room awaited me. Perfect.

So I moved on to a free wifi hotspot to research a new, cheap hotel to live in for a mere twelve hours and found nothing good. These situations are tough. Rain makes camping out of the question. And although the Japanese people are extremely kind, they are also extremely private with their space - I couldn't rely on the open door policy of universal Karma to have someone invite me in for the night.

I was about to bite the bullet and cycle another 25km to a government sponsored rest stop when I cycled right past an acceptable hotel. Whatever the cost at this point, I didn't want to continue another hour in the rain. I had already made up my mind before I entered the lobby, I'm staying. And I did. Outside the nice hotel's front doors is where I snapped this wet shot of the city's cold street. Needless to say. I was miserable to have been so wet, happy to have found a temporary home. 

Matsuyama to Uwajima 

I left early the next day. Got in a nice shower, ate my weight in breakfast at the free buffet, put on my still soggy shoes and was out the door.

I really, really enjoy coast line cycling. The only thing better, in at a close second, is mountain cycling. I love the up, I'm impartial about the down. And here, along the west coast of Shikoku, as you can see by this topography scale, I'll get both. The coast line here is punctuated with sea side cliffs and hills. Nothing more than 300 meters but something is better than nothing.

Rest stops today remind me of home. Tell me this doesn't feel like Santa Cruz, CA.

Route 378 is great as I've said before. Sea breez from the right, shade on the left, and very few cars makes for an enjoyable day.

At the top of one of the hills of the day. You can see off into the distance where the rivers converge to flow off into the Bungo Channel. 

Another shot of the same system of water.

Going downhill alone with one hand is not the smartest time to whip out the camera for a silhouette selfie. All the same, I'm happy with it.

A hundred and some odd km later and I was in Uwajima. This city is much larger than Matsuyama and there are many more options to tent. I found a nice area by the water and set up home.

I am now directly West of where I need to be. At about 100km by crow is my new home and a job teaching English in rural Japan. Nothing fancy. Last time I stopped off in Thailand because I needed a break, and to pad my wallet. Now I'm staying because I really love Japan as a traveler's county. I have my other reasons too.

So, I only foresee another three or so days cycling along the coast. It's going to be hard thinking about much else other than this is what will be my last few all day rides in the bike. 

Uwajima to Kochi

Update: I recieved a message from my employer; turns out I don't have as much leisurely time as I had planned for. No time to stop for flowers or shots of clouds, the immigration in Kochi office needs me right away. 

"How soon can you be here?" It's a question that inspires strength in my legs. "How soon do you need me?" Can't help the grin. "Tomorrow morning." Thrill of a challenge. "I'll be there." Excitement.

Don't write off my route for the day. 112km through Shikoku mountains is not easy. On regular mountain days, fifty to sixty km is plenty because you're never going as long as you are going up and down. So, 112 might have been a little much, and I cursed myself at some points. Yet, the ride was smooth and as a matter of fact, there are indeed bike lanes along some of the road - but no other cyclists. I only saw one man on a bike, and all he did was shake his head at me as he watch me struggle up some steep curves.

A damn I passed along the way, water on the right. I would have gone across the middle lane here if the road wasn't guarded. Too bad.

Yes there are many mountains to climb up and down. The valleys in between however are just as quiet and scenic. I hope that kochi is like this; mountain guarded with crisp blue skies and a cold breeze.  

What's for lunch? Miso ramen soup. Carbs, salts, and fatty pork may sound bad on it own, but on days like today it's a godsend. I opted for a side of gyoza as well, those were devoured in seconds. (Side note: there's a very spicy yellow mustard that gets served with the gyoza here. I'm in love).

You see that thin, hidden strip of road on the middle right? That little scratch of road, that hair strand of pavement obscured by an overreaching forest of greenery? To give you an idea of the contusions I endured today, check this out.  Yeah, multiply that by four hours uphill and you'll know where I'm at. Really, if I get hurt or something breaks up here, I'm in trouble. 

Finally making it out if the forest, the thick trees started to give way to thinner wild bamboo stalks. The mountainous ups, conquered. The indimidating downs, endured. 

Now I have finally made it, six and half hours later, at my destination. Sick with exhaustion, and ready to heave, I'm staying with a fellow teacher until I get settled with my own pad. 

Everything is fine now other than the slow realization that....well, that that was it. I cycled my ass off all day to get here. And now that I'm here I'm happy to know that my paperwork and work visa has been approved. Yet I don't know what my next cycle tour will be or when. I guess I have plenty of time to plan it out.

One last photo before I leave you. I'll be back quick with photos of town and my new apartment. But I wanted to leave you with this, a statue of the Sakamoto Ryōma. He's kinda the cultural hero here. He was a famous rebel who thought opposite the decorum of traditional Japanese isolation customs of the eay 1800's. He didn't advocate wide open reformation, or was an outspoken critic necessarily. Ryōma wanted what was best for Japan; this meant, in his eyes, not being left behind in an emerging world view of nations. He welcomed the East and West equally, people and customs and artifacts alike. The quintessential example: he indeed was a skilled Japanese swordsman and even rose to a rank of samurai - yet everyone knew that Ryōma also carried a very rare gun.

Much love my friends and family. I can't wait to update you again with my new place of residence. Until then, be well!

-A