Japan - Kyushu Day 2, Slow Start, Big Payoff

Yeah, I didn't sleep great, but I slept. I has half anxious to get a good start because I wasn't sure when the ferry would leave, and nothing kills my day like unnecessary waiting. So, 5:00am and here I am.

The upside to an early wake up call is I caught this mountain sunrise just after I packed up and set out.

I only had to cycle a quick 10 minutes to the ferry terminal, where I was to learn that I had arrived two hours too early; the first boat wouldn't depart until 8:00am. So much for avoiding unnecessary waiting. 

I thought about doubling back and catching some breakfast in town but forwent the first meal to research Kyushu island. Sitting in the ticket office, wouldn't you know it, this little guy came up to me.  

And then his whole family joined in. The ticketing both would open soon, they must be expecting food from the conveniently placed bowel.

Reading, research, and catching up on friend's blogs, the ferry finally came. It wasn't very crowded, as you may imagine, for a Monday morning. I had plenty of room to stretch my legs.

Oh, and that these boats let you lay down rather than sit is a great way to travel. I snagged a pillow, found a big open space, sprawled out, and passed out. Some one asked me after, "you don't get sick?" I guess I don't.

The steel mandible.

Once on Kyushu I felt north would be my best bet. The island is known for it's onsens and there happens to be a town just far away enough to make it a day. The ferry didn't actually arrive until 11:45am so I'd have to hustle a bit. No worries, I'm heading for the coast.

Along the way I had to pass through a shitty tunnel. Not literally, thank god. But it was tight and narrow. Just enough to squeeze my bike and me between the curved cold walls of concrete and the semi trucks speeding in the dark.

I have plenty of back calf pedal scrapes, if you've ever had to do the same.  

Up and down and tight turns decents. It all makes for a hungry cyclist. Here was my only real meal of the day if you don't (I don't) count the yogurt, fruit, or popcorn snack stops. 

It's one of my favorite things to eat in Japan although the spice could be higher. CoCoCurries was such a staple in my sister and my diet that is sent her home some curry packets. She loved it.

And so I arrive in Beppu, 94km away from where I began in Saiki.

With air in my tires and food in my belly, it was off to scout for tent space and this legendary onsen at the top of LonelyPlanet online recommendations. 

When I did arrive, I stumbled on to the trifecta of locations. The onsen is only one block away from the coast, and happen to cost only 100¥! Side note: yes, the onsen was so good. I haven't been to one in so long (non in Tosa city) that the healing effects were immediate! All of a sudden my body felt alive again, and my slight headache was gone. New legs and back for a buck? Can't beat it.

Then, just moving down to the coast, is a big park perfect for camping. Toilets? Check. Bushes and hedges? Check. Nice and quiet? Ok, not so much but I'm a heavy sleeper. And to too it all off, a convenience store here too. What a night.

Tent is up and eyelids are down. Tomorrow's a new day, new adventures.

Love,

-A