Korea Day 12 - おもいっきり! (Full Blast!)

I am feeling very productive today.

When on the ferry boat that was to transport a hand full of tourists, cyclists, and crew from Mokpo to the island of Jeju, I overheard that the circumference of the island is measured at some 230km, give or take a few hundred meters. I remember Joe telling me that although he himself had never gone around the island, that most people would make the trip for three days at a good pace. However, on the map, the island does not look to be so large. So I am wondering then where these extra kilometers will come from....I guess that there are many winding roads along the coast line, I hope not be the result of some cliff navigations. All in all, the plan for today is to keep heading counterclockwise along the edge of the island and see how far I can go while keeping an eye out for a nice camping spot.  

I had passed a few OK locations yesterday which could have served my needs nicely. A private place to camp with low risk of being seen, away from the highway, and so on. But, I choose to give up on them and keep pushing my luck even after having to turn on my lights once the sun fell off the edge of the sky. I am happy I did. For a few moments after wondering if I should turn around and occupy that last patch of secluded grass I saw, this gem of a camp sight turned up. Bathrooms, a nice nook, beach side. Home for the night. 

In the morning, I quickly packed up my belongings and got ready for the day because I know my tent is facing North and that I wasn't going to see anything good that way. The clouds look like majestic frosting this morning, covering the sky like they would a fancy hand crafted birthday cake. With the changing clouds which trans-illuminating so slowly that one can find it difficult to notice the change at all, I found a ridge to climb cross the highway, left all I had behind, and found a new spot to crouch down on for the next few moments as I awaited the immanent arrival of the sun.  

Never unexpected yet surprising at the same time, each and every time that I watch that first light I am reinvigorated with vengeance against my lazy days. 

A little further down the line, as Cash would say. 

My first real stop along the way today has me as I make my way down the along the north east curve of the island, heading south. The wind has changed along with me, and I feel anxious to begin heading East along the long stretch of coast, since the wind has begun to blow against my left side, and ought to push me right along once I make it past the South-East turn. 

Anyways, although I have been around many small finish communities since leaving California more than two and a half years ago now, this would be the first time to see these off-white squid, gutted and strung along the sea cost as such. A cephalopod above ground burial site. All in a perfect line, one after another only distinguished by the once fluid tentacles that now move more rigidly in the hot wind than they ever did under the salty water.  

A close up shot of these creatures. Probably out to dry before being further procured into some dried and tasty snack for us to eat. 

Bike taking a break along the passing coast. This marks the beginning of the turn to head East along the bottom portion of the island. The wind will help push me along the bottom half, which I love. But this also means that if the trend keeps up, that I will have a very difficult pass along the very last northern part of the island. The last stretch, as it is, will not be made any easier with a strong head-wind.  

For now however, lets enjoy it. Actually, the wind is not the element which most preoccupies my attention at the moment. In fact, it is the heat. Already early in the morning and the heat can be felt with a radiant vigor. Its not only the temperature which rises, it is the awareness that everything is getting hot around you as well. The rocks, the trees, the oceans; would be smart to sacrifice a little extra heat on a day like today in exchange for long sleeve shirt protection.  

The southern half of the island remains desolate. As a matter of recollection, there really has not been too much in the name of people or shops, or anything at all after leaving the outer working of Jeju city. In many ways, it is a dream come true. Such a relaxing tour of a volcanic island, uninterrupted by killer oversize buses. I do see a few cyclists from time to time, including an old man who I have been playing tag with all day. You know the game; your riding along and pass some folk, who then pass you as you eat a banana under a tree, who you in turn pass once again as they stop for coffee or what not. Anyways, its been fun.

And what is not to love when you find people surfing for fun out along a deserted beach? Their yellow long-boards give away their novice status, but I cant say that I would be any better. 

I'll admit, I became uncomfortable as I saw this huge rock structure from the distance. Edged right up along the coast, I was either going to have to cut inward around it, or somehow go over one of its sides. That I was coming up along near it and it still was peaking into the clouds above, I had to stop and figure out what to do. 

Normally (well, so far) there is a blue line for cyclists to follow all around the island. It will lead you, ideally, across all 230 kilometers of circumference goodness and provide hills, straightaways, and nice descents. But, as we don't live in a perfect world, the blue line occasionally ditches you around corners, or fades away to be inexplicably manifested at a later point at some arbitrary starting point. At this point, I was abandoned and in need of direction. 

I am not much one for navigation. I tend to get lost (subconsciously on purpose) when left to my own route making. Makes for great fun and adventure if you are not too prude about showing up on time. And this time folks, I got really good and lost. But, I found a ship =)

The lettering on the tourist information panel read something like this:

"Hendrick Hamel from the Netherlands was shipwrecked Daejeong-hyeon on the 16th of August in 1653. He was on the way to Nagasaki, Japan from the island of Taiwan on when he and his crew had to force a crash landing due to fierce weather leaving only a slim crew of 36 survivors from a much higher count. Since then, Hamel spent over 13 years in Korea. When he returned to his own country, his journal became the first published record about Korea."

Some further Internet digging suggests that Hamel and his men did not stay on Jeju by choice, and that they were instead forbidden to leave with only a little freedom above the solitary prisoners. When, after 13 years, Hamel and seven of his men did manage and escape, they made their way to Japan and then on home again in the Netherlands.

Most of the day so far is hot. It was hot when I woke up, hot along the turning coast, and now at just past mid-day, its 35 degrees with no clouds and thick, heavy humidity. Feels in part like you're cycling through an endless wall of hot custard. 

Point is, took my feet off my pedals for about two and half hours here to rest and eat lunch. Overall, just to keep cool inside from the sunny day's most intense period. A little lunch, a little nap, and a little reflection, I wondered what made other people want to keep cycling. Depleted and out of breath, they would cycled past my window from time to time and just look as to be in pain from the exposure. I figured, they had a schedule to keep. I don't have to worry about such a thing. And even if I did, I say I would better to rest now, and make up for the time lost under more favorable conditions. I might even come out on top. Have to work smarter, not harder. 

As I continued down the southern stretch of coastline, I began to see some stealthy bike campers, as seen here. Its a nice spot really. I might have even joined them if I was inclined. However, the day and distance matched up nicely as I looked over my map during lunch. If I kept going at a such a good rate, I could make it to the East coast line of the island. If I had to say, somewhere in the 170km mark. Not bad for a day. And, even better, I could put my tent along the beach and wait out tomorrows beautiful sunrise. There wouldn't be anything between my tent and the sun tomorrow except about 100 meters of sand and the entire ocean. 

Making the turn north to begin the eastern coast line. I stopped for a quick little photo and a little break. I really love it when I find grassy patches at the beach, its the best of both worlds.

The sun began to set as my hunger inversely grew. At this point there were not many options for food along the way, as I had already passed the capital urban area of the southern region. I did carry some snacks with me along the way, some nutrient bars that can keep for many days, but those too had already been eaten. Well, as luck would have it, I stopped off to take a look at a stand alone map, and like a spider its web, Art watched and waited from his vantage. Many tourists stop at this map for a look, most of them get caught in Art's sight and smile.

The seemingly friendly phrase, "need some help?" came from over my shoulder. A rare thing to be said in this country I would say. Though I didn't need help with finding my way, I could use a little conversation - the things you can say to yourself are necessarily limited to your own opinions. And Art, as it turns out, is a nice enough guy.

I turned the 100 or so meters to meet and greet Art who runs Sunny's Kitchen; Sunny is the wife as it turned out. More hungry than thirsty for a cup of hot coffee, I asked what was on the menu after 10 minutes of chatter. "Oh, we don't serve food here," was the response. Stunned momentarily with curiosity, I soon questioned, "A food cart that reads 'Sunny's Kitchen' doesn't serve food? or is the kitchen closed?" As if Art had been asked the questions many times, he answered, "We don't serve food." This prompted another 10 minutes worth of conversation between us. At the end, I wanted to order at least a cup of coffee, to which I almost fell flat off my bike when Art told me that the coffee had finished for the day.

"So, you just sit here, waiting?" To which he admitted he was, and for nothing in particular. 

Very strange. I thanked him for his time and explained that I had to make it to the east coast and search for a campsite. Before I left, he rummaged around under the counter for a moment. Pots banged together and I think I heard a glass break but when it was over, Art had produced for me a small snack size of Oreo cookies as a gift. "For you," he said, "sorry about the food and coffee." Like I said, he was a nice enough guy.

Aha! Camp. I can not believe that I have cycled 75% of the 230km with still enough daylight time to catch a little time at the beach. If I didn't care about catching this next sunrise in less than 10 hours, I most definitely would keep pushing and do the entire run in one day. But, for now, I wait. 

Around the bend, I took a little walk to catch the sunset to the West over a small bay. Families still out playing in the sand and the beach with good reason, the day's heat could still be felt and the cool air had not made any difference to that. 

I had met a backpacker by the beach who was, like me, waiting around until things got dark before setting up camp for the night. We chatted a bit and I asked him to watch my stuff for a bit while I scoped out the beach and grassy patches. He in turn asked me for the same small favor while he spent a few minutes backtracking to the convince store for watter and some instant ramen noodles. The idea appealed to me instantly. However, having cycled approximately 170km today, I was in no mood for small food. I needed something...more satisfactory and rewarding. 

Well, this is it. The Google maps are entirely useless for displaying routes in Korea - nowhere and never have they worked since arriving in Busan. Nothing for nothing, its not a huge deal, though its cool to look back at after the end of a long day. Well, in this case, you can imagine starting at the Northern middle tip of Jeju city, working my way West along the coast, heading down and around across the entire southern coast before settling back up and planting my tent and sore gluts at the East coast beach, right before a tiny island to watch the sun come up. 

Its been a really long day, eventful and packed with windy roads. With a full belly and a consciousness filled with confidence I don't predict any trouble falling asleep tonight. Tomorrow ought to be a very short day. I few kilometers back into town under an early sun and I'll hopefully be back in Busan by the end of the day. From there, its just a short trip to Fukuoka again where familiarity is played out in spades. 

If I am to have one last cycle day in Korea, I am glad that it was today. A great uninterrupted cycled across a volcanic island, beautiful shots of Nature along my side, and all the elements around me made for a most wonderful last adventure. And now, its sleepy time.

Much love,

-A