Japan Exodus - Day 4: Pampered Necessities

We had planned to sleep at our friends house. Jeff, who majored in Japanese literature, had left for the weekend and we thought to use his pad in his absence. He had left for the weekend, though he had also not left his window open. He sometimes does, sometimes doesn't. He said we were welcome to stay if he hadn't. In this case, we shrugged and camped on a little patch of land outside his apartment. All was well.


In the next town over, we came to an public rest stop. Normally, these rest stops retain the normal vending machines offering hot and cold drinks, sometimes ice cream, always clean restrooms. However today we find ourselves at a rest station along the way of a pilgrimage route. The 88 temples of Shikoku pilgrimage is immensely popular and now, I'm early spring, all the pilgrims start making their moves clockwise around the island in hopes of completing the journey before typhoon season hits.

Anyways, in observation of the pilgrimage route, this particular rest stop offers a rare hot water foot bath for us travelers to soak our feet.


As you can see, we took full advantage.


My view as I soaked. A tank of goldfish that swam around mid eye level as if they were flying but only at low levels, was the illusion. And in the far back, outside and behind the field, the castle we expect to see at the bottom of the fish tank next to a scuba diver and perhaps some barrier treasure, set high above the mountain.

Right behind were we bathed our feet was a man selling cured fish he had fished himself. The vacuum sealed packaging prevented any sensual aromas from capturing potential customers from wandering in for a closer look. To counter this, the salesman provided free samples and a story to those passing by. The method obviously works well, as both Kyle and I probably had more than our fair sampling, and bought some some fish to save for later. The hook, he told us the fish we choose paired well with beer. At least he didn't lie.

Some crazy cyclist we met soon after pulling into town. He's from Tokyo, taking a trip around Skikoku to visit all 88 temples. You can identify the pilgrims easily by the white grabs the wear and by the signature pointed hat cover (not pictured). 

Still early spring, the Sakura flowers haven't fully come out to play yet. In another week, or maybe even in a few days, looking up at these trees will yield a completely, more colorful, scene.

You can see, the buds are developed, and flowers just waiting for a little more warmth to burst out and signify the true realization of spring.

We visited a temple just inside town, one of the 88 actually. With a few more that I visited in Kouchi, I'm floating around 10 total. A few more to go!

You can see from the view atop the higher steps the incredible view you get from each temple. Certainly where Christian churches are often positioned at the highest point in town, these pilgrimage temples are positioned at the most lovely.

Our first look back at the work we put in. You can see just the last reminisce of town there at the valley.

Stopping off for photos, bridges always make a choice viewing opportunity if you can manage to stop off and gander. That's one of the many benefits to traveling by bike, no hassle double parking.

This is so cool. After climbing all day and a soft descent, we saw this very small, concentrated village of old Japanese houses completely alone in the mountains with little more than a dirt road running through it. The still river below just captured the emotion of isolation and sufficiency perfectly.

Further up the mountain range, an old beer vending machine crossed our path. This machine must be at least 30 or even 40 years old.

Maybe I'm wrong, but from these 2 litter beer options, and the absence of them today, maybe the locals did more drinking back then than today. 

We had stopped off at a tiny hole-in-the-wall grocery store to pick up some dinner because we didn't image their being many food options up in these small mountain towns. And we were right. Despite having schools and post offices and police stations, not a public restaurant in sight. Most of these people forage, garden, and/cook their own meals with very little outside help. Maybe a trip to the grocery store ever now and again.

As for us, we need food now, and we needed it again. The old woman was very sweet, and impressed with our efforts to make it to her town. She know the roads well she said, and could never imagine cycling up this way.

We asked her for some tuna (insanely cheap), bought some pickled veggies, and sushi. She offered us a strawberry each (insanely expensive) and handed us some warm coffee to regain our spirits. The coffee did its trick, but honestly, not as much as the fresh tuna shashimi we ate overlooking the construction of a new bridge being built.

The food we bought from the grocery. What a nice woman, she even cut the piece up for us and gave soy sauce and wasabi too.

That night, we set up camp at a farmers market, were there was plenty of cover to protect us from the one forecasted night of rain. After setting up tents and putting gear away, Kyle took a walk around town and came back with beer. We are the smoked fish we bought earlier that day and talked Japanese culture overlooking the rocky river, as three Japanese cranes hunted the river fish and amphibians.

And that's it for tonight; from foot baths to fresh shashimi over a still river under a cloudy and starry night. Can't help to feel that although we are essentially homeless bums, we are at the same time very pampered in necessities. Good company, good food, good scenery. Tomorrow looks like a lot of climbing, but that also usually means a lot of good views too.

Love,
-A