Korea Day 4 - I May Have Died Last Night

Because, I found Heaven. 

I'm sitting on the edge of a boat, drinking a cold beer at noon and eating kimchi with a group of Korean cyclists who've just finished a small tour of Japan. I have a room on a cruise ship with a TV, air conditioning, and a private bath, although I wouldn't need to use that last one on the account of there also being a sento aboard. On the floor below us are Kareokoe rooms and a gaming arcade. Back out on the observation deck the wind smells perfect. There are no mosquitos. 

I do know that I am being rewarded for three days of diligence, but I think I seriously may have died last night. I don't know how much better this can get. 

Of course this is not how the day started out. I didn't wake up on a first rate cruise ship.

I woke up here, under the stars. My tent a little moist from the humidity and the light rain fall. I was to wake up early on the account of sleeping in a very public space with no cover, and the police are sure to patrol through at some point or another. The night never managed a good enough downpour to worry me or my tent, though I did try and cover up my bike as much as I could. 

This is not your typical Japanese breakfast. I love it though. 

Waking up early is easy enough to do on days like today. Problem was, even with breakfast done and over, I still had plenty of time before I could even purchase a ticket at the international dock. So, what to do? 

I stretched out, popped a squat against a strong pillar of sorts along the urban spread, and checked my watch. Fancy that a mirror was close by for me to snag a rare selfy. Upon a second look around, I saw that I was in luck. I had just plotted down next to a doughnut shop that gives out free coffee refills. The day is turning out alright, not bad at all!  

My bike posted along side the doughnut shop.

Yes, I could have just bought coffee. But wouldn't you want to try some of these doughnuts too? You can see my bike does. She's peering in the background through the window.

As I hinted at before, I met some cycling Koreans along the way onboard. They are a nice enough group of people, cyclists usually are to one another. One of which speaks English very well. That I don't speak a single word of Korean, he gave me some great tips and invited me to stay with him in Seoul. 

All my efforts to arrive early enough yesterday with reasonable time to arrange a ferry ticket had been for not. When I arrived at the terminal then, sweaty and hungry and rocking a new rear tire set up, I was heartbroken to find that the ferry I wanted wouldn't take my bike. That is, the JR Beattle from Fukuoka to Busan only takes fold up bikes on account of them not taking up a great deal of space. My bike and four bags takes up a good amount of space.

Fortune, however, is not rarely without a sense of surprise. The JR Beattle clerk informed me of a second ferry that would accept my bike. And, to fortune and surprise, the cost was cheaper and turned out to be the best ferry cruise ride of my life.

The S.S. Camilla had lots to keep people busy and off the fact that we'd be in for a six hour ride. Upon passing through the cabins to my room, I mistakenly found an arcade.... 

...there is a sento on board.....(!!!)

....four (4!) Karaoke rooms to enjoy.....

....a 24 hour bartender serving premium Japanese beer at $2..... 

....to which I stared to enjoy immediately after settling in. This is me on the deck of the ship enjoying a cold one before I saw the group of cyclists, and many others, come out and snap-pop open cans of beer under the salty fog that is unmistakable feel of traveling by boat.

How much better could we get? Apparently just a bit more as there was also a tabehodai lunch menu. Literally, "eating no limit." With only three donoughts and many cups of coffee consumed hours ago, my eyes lit up and my pulse jumped scores of bpm after noting the smell and the option of having a good meal. I was happy =)

Plate number 1. Besides the fried shrimp, the dish is mostly Korean good food. Rice, noodles, fish, veggies, bean sprouts and of course, spicy fermented veggies; a.k.a. kimchi. 

Round two. There was a third round of bananas and oranges and more coffee, but not nearly as exciting as this. 

And after taking it all in, after the food and bath and singing with new friends, everyone gathered to jump ship as soon as possible. It was around 6:30 in the PM as I walked off the boat and started the immigration process.

Everything when's smoothly, and I entered Busan international ferry port with ease. I can't believe it =) A new country, people, and food to explore for summer vacation. 

Oh, and I managed to work out a WarmShowers host for the first night upon my arrival. Meet Moon, a stand up guy who is no stranger to traveling. He picked me up at the ferry terminal with a smile and we clicked instantly. 

Moon spoke English very well and for the whole time I stayed with him, we swapped stories and ideas about the West, East, and everything that's happened along the way. 

In many ways, your first true contact in a new country is the most essential. You have many questions as a foreigner and I am lucky to have Moon there to help answer them. Learning how, and what to order at restaurants could be read in books, but I've come to understand how I learn and operate; behavior and/manners are best learnt by observation and practice.

So, before heading home, we ate some pork rice soup. Served in a hot sizzling platter, I forgot about the humidity and started eating right away. With more of a savory taste above all, one bite and you could tell that this was no longer Japanese food. 

And if the taste wasn't obvious, then all the complimentary (and unlimited!) side dishes drive the point home.

Now, my immediate impression is that the food culture here hints of a Malaysian style. Metal dishes and utensils, fresh and exotic veggie side dishes, everything but the food itself was all bring back warm memories. 

Dessert. Cold sweet rice drink which I haven't found again but was absolutely delicious! 

So, we made it back the apartment and I was talked with Moon's father a bit about his time in Japan before excusing myself and getting ready for bed. Although it had not been very active, I was tired. Funny how sometimes opposite is also true.

Tomorrow will be my first real day in Busan, South Korea and the weather is scheduled for rain. We'll see what happens with that. I of coursed planned a few extra days to burn so I might just stick around and explore the city with my new host.

Buenas noches,

-A