Bring on the rain.
I'd have to start thinking that the rain will be an inevitable part of my trip, shelter or no. The storm that was a day behind is now right on my back, it's winds sometimes help push me forward down nice straightaways. Seems as though typhoon winds can move faster than I can.
There are two ways to get around Asō, the north and the south. I was to track from the west and opted to go through the southern valleys so I could end in town, which kept itself on the opposite northern ridges of the range. Even if it meant less shelter options.
I do recommend traveling this way if you can, counterclockwise from the west if only because you will be rewarded with a dramatic descent. It's worth it.
So, this turned out not to be the prettiest day but that depends on your aesthetic perspective. Google mount Asō and you'll see plenty of clean shots. Let's throw some dirty ones up there.
I actually did rest very well last night, I'll even go as far as saying it was the best sleep I've had on the trip outdoors. It didn't even rain (that hard).
Not that my relatively dry night would be any indication of the weather to be for the day. Right or wrong, wet or dry, I was determined to keep moving because I had already made the U turn point away from Nagasaki, since then I've been making my way East back home again. In other words, I have an end goal again (partly, my warm, dry bed), and that makes things a little easier for me mentally. Something to push for. It's how I explain to people who don't believe they can do what I do. I tell them it's not physically difficult, if anything that's the easy part.
So, despite cycling under grey clouds punctuated by dark and windy downpours, I pushed through the day. The photo is of my first (one of many) resentful rest point, just one hour into the morning.
It's hard to capture rain on camera and film, something directors have struggled with for years (some clever directors who insist on showing rain cleaverly spray their actors with larger droplets, or add milk to the water to make the rain more visible on camera). Anyways, trust me, this is beyond simple umbrella weather.
Here is my second resentful rest point; an abandoned restaurant that I waited under for about an hour as tour buses and family filled cars rubbernecked my existence.
The rain was at least giving me a pattern to work with. If I felt a few drops come down, I'd look up. You can easily spot the rain clouds. If the clouds didn't look good, scramble! Because in about two and a half minutes you are going to be caught in something terrible, as seen here by water gushing off the roof gutter.
Note: this picture and the one before it are identical. The former was shot just after landing, the latter at it's worst.
Not sure what the government is pumping out of the mountain here but the idea of using it as a water slide ride in the off season is too perfect to overlook =)
One of the smaller peaks of the day. Unfortunately, no paths up this one.
This shot dutifully depicts the coexistence of clouds and rain clouds. Bright and dark grey, light and shadow, they speed at which the sky swapped it's physical prowess astonished me! Not especially good for tuning out and daydreaming while cycling, you'll get caught up.
Sigh, another resentful rest stop. You can see that never is there much room to hide under, and even if the roof pulled out a little more, you're never truely protected from splattering droplets carried by the wind. Man, I've never been so thankful for waterproof panniers - thanks Sis!! In the old days carrying my green fabric front panniers, I'd either have a wet tent, or wet clothes by now.
Blah, more rain. You can see the streets beginning to flood downhill but I had no choice. Had to keep moving around the mountain to the city in the North where there ought to be food and permanent shelter.
A moment, literally, of clarity, yay! My feelings perfectly rerepresented in the expression of this bear character made from hay. If it were more clear, I believe we'd see the tip top of Asō from here. Alas, carry on.
The sacristy of available sheltering options sharply decreased as I continued circling my way north east. At this point, I had to sneak under someone's driveway. They either didn't see me, didn't care, or weren't at home because I hung out here for a good amount of time to watch what was left of the soil turn to sludgy mud.
Now, "why not just cycle in the rain Andrés? You are going to get wet anyways." Yeah, it's true. However, there is a HUGE difference, a massive chasm of separation between cycling wet and cycling drenched. I've cycled drenched before; the wet socks, the soaked scalp, the slippery hands - not fun. Cycling wet is manageable - if you have the proper strength and patience.
Ah yes, this is what it's all about! Finally reaching that top, the final crest! It's all downhill from here, and what a ride. I'll say it again: if you plan to cycle around Asō, go counterclockwise, this is all worth it. What a sweet descent.
There is really only one Japanese food option after days like today, soup. Ramen or udon, miso or shoyu. Doesn't matter, eat up!
As you can see before, I scouted my map for a place to sleep tonight. Just my luck, there happens to be a michi no eki in town, and I made haste toward it. Yet, I wasn't happy when I pulled up. There where some green spots, nothing worth camping on, and nothing covered.
Very demoralized about being shot down from a convinient area to camp, added by the fact that I would now have to go hunt for a new place to pitch tent, I climbed back on the bike, kicked a low gear, and rode up this cool looking tunnel out of town. At least I'd be making headway for tomorrow's ride off Kyushu, I'd have to be happy with that.
Slick roads calling my name; goodbye Asō!
Shelter always seems to find me just in the nick of time. Here is a tall roadside rest spot kind of thing that will do fine. The roof is a little high to cover the rain effectively but I'm not that picky now that night had fallen. Roll out the footprint and assemble that tent because I'm ready for bed.
I made really good progress today in the face of rain, just over 110km. Looking at the map for the rest of the trip, I will have to plan how I divide the rest of the way home. Looks as though I can have one really long day, or two shorter days. Though, taking in mind how the weather has left me depleted and cold tonight, I might just make one big 200km push tomorrow and be done with it. We'll see.
Love and warmth,
-A
No comments:
Post a Comment