Japan - Kyushu Day 10, The Way Home

Despite my long days and some shadowy nights, the elusive 200 km fully loaded ride has still eluded me. Call it my white whale. If for nothing else, missing out yet again is a positive happenstance; its still a reason to get back out there.

And on a day like today, a last day, these things are welcomed.

Sleeping under the trees is always nice - I get a calming sense of protection without the fear of colossal collapsing cement slamming all around you from above as you sleep, should Japan decide she wants to shake things up while you nap under a bridge. No, this is much more peaceful. And in the morning, a view like this also helps to melt away some of that last tour day depression because it reminds me of all the beauty awaiting just outside our doors, if you can wake up and see it. 

The hanging branches provided the perfect contrast against what I can only call the most purple sky to wake up to. Even in Thailand, a morning surprise as this one is really special. To wake up with it in Japan, after the rain that has been, leaves me astonished.

I didn't even have breakfast, at least not at first. I didn't pack away my tent and I didn't collect the few things the wind had knocked down to the ground which I had left on my bike to hopelessly dry in the humid night air. I just sat down, and watched the glowing sky slowly blend together over itself like so many colors conjoining and competing for their space next to the Sun. 

And as for as beautiful as that morning sunrise was, these things, like money, are never meant to last. You just have to enjoy them as you have them. And now the color was gone, replaced by clouds that only had one very simple goal, their only goal, in mind. 

When I returned home from a visit to family or vacation as a child, the San Francisco fog was a clear sign in my eyes: welcome home. The San Francisco fog is its own brand, with its own misty distinction. Still, when I see it in other regions of the World, I cant help but think of those long BART rides home when in between certain stations you can look out, and see the fog.

Now the fog is here once again, and today it blocked my sight for a good portion of the way home. That's alright, I've taken this way a few times now and do not have to rely on my maps or worry about missing highway exchanges. No, today, like those days before, I get to enjoy the fog.

This is not a picture from today. If you go back and see, its a picture from day one of this trip, nine days ago. And the only reason I bring it up is because....

...because today I snapped the same picture and the difference is remarkable. So thick the fog is today that it feels as though I have been cycling through a rain cloud. 

Making it out of the rain cloud and into some very familiar slopes, I wanted to pause and snap this telling photo of how relaxing some stretches can be. I've mentioned this before, how the bamboo and trees learn to live together to create a superb peripheral view as the slopes increase more and more into the final climb.

Mud on the face. Only a score of kilometers left and mother nature was not going to take it easy on me. The rain kept coming, the cars splattered me unintentionally, and tunnels leaked dirt and grime from their ceilings. Even my own fenderless tires insisted I arrive home appropriately as any long traveler ought; dirty.  

I was not paying attention, I did not care to explain even if I could, to whether or not any one recognized me as I welcomed myself home. After all, I don't live in all that large a town. I did feel some stares fall upon me, understandably, as I waited at those last few stoplights home; and the curious face upon the chance encounter with my landlord as I began unhinging my soggy tent and panniers in front of the apartment complex left me smiling. Delusional, I'm guessing, in his eyes. Yet there was nothing delusional about the smile to me. Dirty, depleted, and hungry, I had made it.

Oh, whats a hungry Mexican to do? Better round up some veggies and make some pico de gallo salsa, its time to eat! I didn't even waste time showering. Partly because I was indeed so hungry, yes. Partly because I so enjoy the feeling of being alive.

I also, with no gluttonous demur at all, devoured two onigiri (one seaweed, one shrimp), a big bowl of cereal (bag partly pictured above), two pieces of yellow cake, some shaved ice, and an ice cream. Its ok (well, not ok) because I've cycled my way back down to 64.7 kg and could use the weight. Oh, and I also watched Godzilla versus Moth-man because, ya know, its Japan.

My second course is a little more filling, a little more meatier. For all the traveling I've managed without using a stove, the feeling of getting back under some fire and cooking your own meal is priceless. The creative freedom, the anticipation of your creation, the satisfaction of accomplishment - I love it.

And how about that? Go, Moritz, and his girlfriend sent me a welcome home bottle of Kyoto sake to go along with my dinner. Perfect =)

Yes, yes, plenty of laundry to do the next day. Speaking of which, my body is still itching to go go go at 5:00 AM and I am forcing myself back to sleep. There is only so much I can clean at home after all.

I also gave my bike a tune up in the next few days, and a bath. She's been so good to me and my sister over the years. 

So that it, the end of a mini cycling tour across this fine land. I've checked off the island of Kyushu which means there are only two main islands out of the five remaining: Hokkaido and Okinawa. Then there's that slippery 200km day I need...so don't go anywhere just yet. I've had to return home for a few work related meetings but also to make my home available to host a couple of other travelers out of this typhoon season. Its a wet world, have to offer shelter when I can.

And for all my bitching you had to read through, about the bitter calamities of cyclo-touring through Japan in the rain, remember that it is just as it has always been said -  that the destination is never the juice of the this exotic fruit called opportunity. The sweetness, the satisfaction, the juicy treat is the journey at its center. Its in the process of the task, so you had better enjoy it; good or bad, evil or virtuous, wet or dry.

Mucu,much love my friends and family. I'll be back soon, they say August is the month of festivals.

-A