Friday, June 28, 2013

Malaysia - South, Part IV - Johor Bahru

A freshly shaven head makes for great aerodynamics, even under a helmet. Less hair also kept me cooler which means I could cycle for longer. 

One more stop before traveling into Singapore, our third country. Think of Johor Bahru as the San Diego to Mexico, the last real place you want to stop of before committing to boarder hopping. 

Well, one of last two stops really - because we had to, had to, stop by the Shimano assembly factory. Shimano is the major name in bike parts today. A Japanese company founded in 1921 who capitalized on the demand for bike parts during the 1960 and 70's American interest boom, the multinational company is synonymous with the industry itself. Specializing in bike components rather than frames or apparel, they hold some ridiculous number like 50% of the global market. Just between Chris and I, we are putting at about fifteen different Shimano  manufactured components to the test. They were probably made right here.



Too bad we stumbled onto the factory on a Sunday (!) when there was no one but the front gate security guard to talk with. 

When we finally did arrive in Johor Bahru, we were welcomed by our friend Cindy. You might remember Cindy, she was at The Black Hole back on the island of Sumatra. She took this photo there:

Yes, when we find a Internet connection we turn into pod-people.

Cindy with a couple of American boys. 

Cindy's cool aunt who owns a kareokee bar! 

We could only stay in Johor Bahru one day. We made the best of what was there to offer.

We took a nature walk.

...and walk...

...and walk...

...and walk...

...and walk...

...and walk! Hey do you see that? It's a giant A in the trees! Talk about your good omens! I pay attention to the omens, they have not steared me wrong.

After the walk it was time to cool off. A public waterfall waited for us at the bottom of the hill we climbed. Didn't plan on it so we ditched the clothes, stripped down to out underwear and jumped in that sweet cold water! Few things are so refreshing. 

Segway. I had a friend look at my blog and her reaction was that I tend to discover my travels by food. So true. I would not call myself a foodie, I would not describe my interest in food to include the esoteric comprehension attached to a meal's preparation. 

They say a foodie would never answer the question "what are you eating?" with "I don't know." But I would. Doesn't knowing what you are eating devalue the surprise of new food? I love to try new food, even when I have no clue as to its origin, toxicity, or spice level. Bring it on. They say foodies do not only like food, they have an interest in it. Good for them. Well, I LOVE food. I love it. And I believe good food should be cheap. No need to spiff it up or ornament the dish. And no small portions, please. When it comes to food, for me, delicacy is something I throw in the rubbish bin along with cook books and aprons.

Can you guess what this is before jumping to the next picture's close up?

Still can't figure out the mystery meat? It's Stingray! (Fifty points to the team in the back!). The meat is delicious though it is difficult to tell where the meat ends and where the jelly-like wings begin. Look closely on the left, you can see where the stinger has been removed. You're welcome Steve Irwin.

You know, we've eaten many a different things along this trip. Insects, cow skin, frogs, dogs, and chicken feet. But you just can't beat the classics. And you can't beat the repressed cravings for western food perpetuated by tasting stale rice for breakfast, lunch, and dinner with anything less than an equally powerful force. I found a store to feed a craving: dairy.

Ice cream, a quart of milk, orange juice, and bread for something to spread cream cheese (!!) on. Slap me silly and call that dinner! Sorry mom, you taught me better than this but I enjoyed this meal too much to regret it. 

On to Singapore! Singapore, the City of rules, standards, and regulations. How will two rebellious Americans be regarded in such a place? I wonder. I also wonder if they have public nudity laws. Stay tuned.

Love,
-A

Malaysia - South, Part III; Pontian Kachil and Tanjung Balai

I am purposefully skipping the doldrum accounts of cycling through southern Malaysia. It's hot and boring; what else, how else, can I put into words a description of the repetitive motions involved with cycling through endless palm oil plantations that dominate the horizon, that disappear into the tiny black dot where the possibility for sight can no longer exist. It's an experience seemingly out of time, riding motionless through monotony. You know what I mean, you've driven down that straight freeway, all cars driving at exactly the same speed as you. It feels more to drifting than driving; floating rather than having a sense of control. Space and speed seem to loose their meaning.

So here are the more grandeur highlights and accounts of our trip out if Malacca and down onto the most southern point of the entire Asian continent. 

Fully loaded Chris, riding down one hell of a bridge. We were told days later that bicycles are not allowed on this bridge. Oops! Well, it wouldn't be the first time we broke pedestrian laws unintentionally. Won't be the last.

A kind bumper sticker reminder. It's always nice when drivers and cyclists share the road.

No dogs in sight, we continued moving down the West coast in the direction of Pontian Kachil. It is not the most southern point, it's about 20km north of there. But whats 20km among friends? We stayed with a new one, a great one, the talented and lovely host Cier.

The trip is unanimous; three thumbs up!





Now that's what I call lunch! All veggies and rice noodles, I'm seriously making up for opportunities lost in Indonesian cuisine. 

And so we rode like the wind, leaving our bags behind with Cier, down to the Southern most tip of the continent. And I mean like. the. wind. I was kin to the martial arts competitor who trained with weights tied to his wrists, ankles, and abdomen for strength, only to let the concealed pounds of metal fall onto the hard ground letting the smack startle the opponent's nerve. With no panniers weighing down our bikes and an open highway with legitimate bikes lanes, I f**king flew down those last 20km in a matter of minutes. As a matter of fact, I was going so fast and my bike was so light that I almost seriously crashed.


Made it alive to the entrance of the "park", where Tanjung Piai, the southern Asian tip, is said to be.

Is this, unappealing mush of mangrove swamp, it? No, couldn't be.

Maybe if we walk down this pier we'll find the Southern tip...

...nope, another bust.

Wait, I think I see it! This is either the Southern point or the entrance to Universal Studios Malaysia.

....still unsure....

Ah yes, here we are. This is it. Between Singapore and the Malaccan straight rests the southern tip of the Asian continent.

A last note for today. Damn it's hot here! There are clouds in the sky and the Sun is not always visible, but damn, I say damn, it is hot here!


...so I shaved my head.

Love,
-A

Wednesday, June 26, 2013

Malaysia - South, Part II; Malacca

Ah yes, Malacca, Malaysia's cultural capital city. It is Indonesian's Yogyakarta, San Francisco's Mission district. Parties, the best food, interesting people, public spaces, the entertainment underbelly to the region, it is the kind of place the locals go to break up the monotony.

Freshly blended coconut milkshakes with an extra scoop of vanilla ice cream ($0.80 for the curious)....

Actual bike lanes...

New food! I believe the first words out of my mouth after sampling this dish were "Wow, new flavors!!"...

The portions may look small but its all you can eat rice and veggies at most restaurants here. Dangerous...

And then the baked goods, of all kinds!...

Choosing these three was not easy...

...rejecting these...

...and these, were.

Yes, Malacca welcomed us to new a home with much to see. For instance (apart from the Starbucks, KFC, and Pizza Hut restaurants that irritatingly convey the penetration of Western scope), you can take a walk in any direction and see...

The town river. Much more beautiful at night. You'll just have to experience it yourself one night. Till then, take my word for it. Just don't get too close to the bank, amphibious lizards dwell in these waters, some up to five feet in length. 

Keep walking and you'll see these views from atop the only hill in town. The skyline here is not meant to be impressive, wait till Singapore for that.

Historic forts restored to the best of their once glorious defenses have earned downtown Malacca a UNESCO World Herritage Site recognition.  

The traditional markets. Every major junction has one, no two have ever been the same.






Cool hospital benches behind us, I'm staying at a  biker friendly hostel. Seriously friendly, in that I don't pay rent because I'm traveling via cepeda (cycling through). Translation: more money for food!

My favorite spot to sit and write at the three storied Ringo's Foyer. 

The kitchen here - where I ironically did not spend much of my time eating. Food is just cheaper to eat out than to cook at home in these parts. I
amcomplaining (a bit), because I love to bang a few pots together and whip up a meal. Or is it that I love to be in control? Lets say both...

The manager here at Ringos even has a collection of beach cruisers that he lends out to the guests. Here we all are, group riding to a family style dinner.

And here I am ready to kick some backgammon ass! I talk s**t but honestly, I've never played before and still took home the prize!

The roll that win me the best two out of three game and consiquently forced Chris to buy me pork steam buns for breakfast. Seriously, never bet against me.

The time spent at Ringos is turning into another Black Hole. Comfy, a great influx of world characters, warm weather and plenty of cheep beer to loosen up the more tight mouthed, quiet types. A definite retirement location nomination.

That's all for now, were still moving South and only a few days away from Singapore. Love you all.

Best,
-A