Korea Day 12 - おもいっきり! (Full Blast!)

I am feeling very productive today.

When on the ferry boat that was to transport a hand full of tourists, cyclists, and crew from Mokpo to the island of Jeju, I overheard that the circumference of the island is measured at some 230km, give or take a few hundred meters. I remember Joe telling me that although he himself had never gone around the island, that most people would make the trip for three days at a good pace. However, on the map, the island does not look to be so large. So I am wondering then where these extra kilometers will come from....I guess that there are many winding roads along the coast line, I hope not be the result of some cliff navigations. All in all, the plan for today is to keep heading counterclockwise along the edge of the island and see how far I can go while keeping an eye out for a nice camping spot.  

I had passed a few OK locations yesterday which could have served my needs nicely. A private place to camp with low risk of being seen, away from the highway, and so on. But, I choose to give up on them and keep pushing my luck even after having to turn on my lights once the sun fell off the edge of the sky. I am happy I did. For a few moments after wondering if I should turn around and occupy that last patch of secluded grass I saw, this gem of a camp sight turned up. Bathrooms, a nice nook, beach side. Home for the night. 

In the morning, I quickly packed up my belongings and got ready for the day because I know my tent is facing North and that I wasn't going to see anything good that way. The clouds look like majestic frosting this morning, covering the sky like they would a fancy hand crafted birthday cake. With the changing clouds which trans-illuminating so slowly that one can find it difficult to notice the change at all, I found a ridge to climb cross the highway, left all I had behind, and found a new spot to crouch down on for the next few moments as I awaited the immanent arrival of the sun.  

Never unexpected yet surprising at the same time, each and every time that I watch that first light I am reinvigorated with vengeance against my lazy days. 

A little further down the line, as Cash would say. 

My first real stop along the way today has me as I make my way down the along the north east curve of the island, heading south. The wind has changed along with me, and I feel anxious to begin heading East along the long stretch of coast, since the wind has begun to blow against my left side, and ought to push me right along once I make it past the South-East turn. 

Anyways, although I have been around many small finish communities since leaving California more than two and a half years ago now, this would be the first time to see these off-white squid, gutted and strung along the sea cost as such. A cephalopod above ground burial site. All in a perfect line, one after another only distinguished by the once fluid tentacles that now move more rigidly in the hot wind than they ever did under the salty water.  

A close up shot of these creatures. Probably out to dry before being further procured into some dried and tasty snack for us to eat. 

Bike taking a break along the passing coast. This marks the beginning of the turn to head East along the bottom portion of the island. The wind will help push me along the bottom half, which I love. But this also means that if the trend keeps up, that I will have a very difficult pass along the very last northern part of the island. The last stretch, as it is, will not be made any easier with a strong head-wind.  

For now however, lets enjoy it. Actually, the wind is not the element which most preoccupies my attention at the moment. In fact, it is the heat. Already early in the morning and the heat can be felt with a radiant vigor. Its not only the temperature which rises, it is the awareness that everything is getting hot around you as well. The rocks, the trees, the oceans; would be smart to sacrifice a little extra heat on a day like today in exchange for long sleeve shirt protection.  

The southern half of the island remains desolate. As a matter of recollection, there really has not been too much in the name of people or shops, or anything at all after leaving the outer working of Jeju city. In many ways, it is a dream come true. Such a relaxing tour of a volcanic island, uninterrupted by killer oversize buses. I do see a few cyclists from time to time, including an old man who I have been playing tag with all day. You know the game; your riding along and pass some folk, who then pass you as you eat a banana under a tree, who you in turn pass once again as they stop for coffee or what not. Anyways, its been fun.

And what is not to love when you find people surfing for fun out along a deserted beach? Their yellow long-boards give away their novice status, but I cant say that I would be any better. 

I'll admit, I became uncomfortable as I saw this huge rock structure from the distance. Edged right up along the coast, I was either going to have to cut inward around it, or somehow go over one of its sides. That I was coming up along near it and it still was peaking into the clouds above, I had to stop and figure out what to do. 

Normally (well, so far) there is a blue line for cyclists to follow all around the island. It will lead you, ideally, across all 230 kilometers of circumference goodness and provide hills, straightaways, and nice descents. But, as we don't live in a perfect world, the blue line occasionally ditches you around corners, or fades away to be inexplicably manifested at a later point at some arbitrary starting point. At this point, I was abandoned and in need of direction. 

I am not much one for navigation. I tend to get lost (subconsciously on purpose) when left to my own route making. Makes for great fun and adventure if you are not too prude about showing up on time. And this time folks, I got really good and lost. But, I found a ship =)

The lettering on the tourist information panel read something like this:

"Hendrick Hamel from the Netherlands was shipwrecked Daejeong-hyeon on the 16th of August in 1653. He was on the way to Nagasaki, Japan from the island of Taiwan on when he and his crew had to force a crash landing due to fierce weather leaving only a slim crew of 36 survivors from a much higher count. Since then, Hamel spent over 13 years in Korea. When he returned to his own country, his journal became the first published record about Korea."

Some further Internet digging suggests that Hamel and his men did not stay on Jeju by choice, and that they were instead forbidden to leave with only a little freedom above the solitary prisoners. When, after 13 years, Hamel and seven of his men did manage and escape, they made their way to Japan and then on home again in the Netherlands.

Most of the day so far is hot. It was hot when I woke up, hot along the turning coast, and now at just past mid-day, its 35 degrees with no clouds and thick, heavy humidity. Feels in part like you're cycling through an endless wall of hot custard. 

Point is, took my feet off my pedals for about two and half hours here to rest and eat lunch. Overall, just to keep cool inside from the sunny day's most intense period. A little lunch, a little nap, and a little reflection, I wondered what made other people want to keep cycling. Depleted and out of breath, they would cycled past my window from time to time and just look as to be in pain from the exposure. I figured, they had a schedule to keep. I don't have to worry about such a thing. And even if I did, I say I would better to rest now, and make up for the time lost under more favorable conditions. I might even come out on top. Have to work smarter, not harder. 

As I continued down the southern stretch of coastline, I began to see some stealthy bike campers, as seen here. Its a nice spot really. I might have even joined them if I was inclined. However, the day and distance matched up nicely as I looked over my map during lunch. If I kept going at a such a good rate, I could make it to the East coast line of the island. If I had to say, somewhere in the 170km mark. Not bad for a day. And, even better, I could put my tent along the beach and wait out tomorrows beautiful sunrise. There wouldn't be anything between my tent and the sun tomorrow except about 100 meters of sand and the entire ocean. 

Making the turn north to begin the eastern coast line. I stopped for a quick little photo and a little break. I really love it when I find grassy patches at the beach, its the best of both worlds.

The sun began to set as my hunger inversely grew. At this point there were not many options for food along the way, as I had already passed the capital urban area of the southern region. I did carry some snacks with me along the way, some nutrient bars that can keep for many days, but those too had already been eaten. Well, as luck would have it, I stopped off to take a look at a stand alone map, and like a spider its web, Art watched and waited from his vantage. Many tourists stop at this map for a look, most of them get caught in Art's sight and smile.

The seemingly friendly phrase, "need some help?" came from over my shoulder. A rare thing to be said in this country I would say. Though I didn't need help with finding my way, I could use a little conversation - the things you can say to yourself are necessarily limited to your own opinions. And Art, as it turns out, is a nice enough guy.

I turned the 100 or so meters to meet and greet Art who runs Sunny's Kitchen; Sunny is the wife as it turned out. More hungry than thirsty for a cup of hot coffee, I asked what was on the menu after 10 minutes of chatter. "Oh, we don't serve food here," was the response. Stunned momentarily with curiosity, I soon questioned, "A food cart that reads 'Sunny's Kitchen' doesn't serve food? or is the kitchen closed?" As if Art had been asked the questions many times, he answered, "We don't serve food." This prompted another 10 minutes worth of conversation between us. At the end, I wanted to order at least a cup of coffee, to which I almost fell flat off my bike when Art told me that the coffee had finished for the day.

"So, you just sit here, waiting?" To which he admitted he was, and for nothing in particular. 

Very strange. I thanked him for his time and explained that I had to make it to the east coast and search for a campsite. Before I left, he rummaged around under the counter for a moment. Pots banged together and I think I heard a glass break but when it was over, Art had produced for me a small snack size of Oreo cookies as a gift. "For you," he said, "sorry about the food and coffee." Like I said, he was a nice enough guy.

Aha! Camp. I can not believe that I have cycled 75% of the 230km with still enough daylight time to catch a little time at the beach. If I didn't care about catching this next sunrise in less than 10 hours, I most definitely would keep pushing and do the entire run in one day. But, for now, I wait. 

Around the bend, I took a little walk to catch the sunset to the West over a small bay. Families still out playing in the sand and the beach with good reason, the day's heat could still be felt and the cool air had not made any difference to that. 

I had met a backpacker by the beach who was, like me, waiting around until things got dark before setting up camp for the night. We chatted a bit and I asked him to watch my stuff for a bit while I scoped out the beach and grassy patches. He in turn asked me for the same small favor while he spent a few minutes backtracking to the convince store for watter and some instant ramen noodles. The idea appealed to me instantly. However, having cycled approximately 170km today, I was in no mood for small food. I needed something...more satisfactory and rewarding. 

Well, this is it. The Google maps are entirely useless for displaying routes in Korea - nowhere and never have they worked since arriving in Busan. Nothing for nothing, its not a huge deal, though its cool to look back at after the end of a long day. Well, in this case, you can imagine starting at the Northern middle tip of Jeju city, working my way West along the coast, heading down and around across the entire southern coast before settling back up and planting my tent and sore gluts at the East coast beach, right before a tiny island to watch the sun come up. 

Its been a really long day, eventful and packed with windy roads. With a full belly and a consciousness filled with confidence I don't predict any trouble falling asleep tonight. Tomorrow ought to be a very short day. I few kilometers back into town under an early sun and I'll hopefully be back in Busan by the end of the day. From there, its just a short trip to Fukuoka again where familiarity is played out in spades. 

If I am to have one last cycle day in Korea, I am glad that it was today. A great uninterrupted cycled across a volcanic island, beautiful shots of Nature along my side, and all the elements around me made for a most wonderful last adventure. And now, its sleepy time.

Much love,

-A  

Korea Day 11 - Solo Circumnavigating The Island Of Jeju

Morning! 

It's a new day and it's filled with hope. Dreams come to me with how the next few days will continue in the best possible way. A quick ride down to Mokpo today, then a ferry ride, a day(s) around the island (I'm unsure of Jeju's circumference), and back on a new ferry to Busan. From there, it's just a quick stop from Japan. 

As I stared up at the white ceiling looking back at me, I somehow, very strangely, forgot when I woke up. Has this ever happened to you? I assume I am awake, but if I am I just don't remember the moment of opening my eyes, becoming conscious, and waking up. In any way, I turned my head to the white bedroom door adjacent to the black leather couch failing to contain my lanky legs. Emily, Craig's girlfriend, whose home I  crashing, works at a bakery. She must be getting ready for work.

Mornings become a lot easier on a bike tour. I can often find myself packed and down the road before the sunrise, and I'm no stranger to putting down 30 or 40 km before breakfast. This morning, as it is, slowed significantly in comparison. 

Emilie and I talked a bit through our respective morning haze, she even waited a bit for me and rode for two blocks together before she turned off towards work. I thanked her, and asked her to thank Craig again for me when he wakes; then we were off. Emilie to work, and I to Mokpo.

The morning ride was such a pleasant ride out of town. I figure this as a cause to two reasons: first, I had already crossed the main stretch of Gwangju yesterday evening. Second, that Craig lives abruptly close to the river, the very same river that I could follow all the way down to Mokpo. 

The analogy of Korea's topography looking more like an argyle sweater than anything else, where moving in straight lines horizontally remains nonexistent, I was happy to travel this day diagonally along the river water. In addition, for two thirds of the ride I cruised down a paved bike lane just for bikes. (That last piece seems redundant, but actually it's quite rare. "Bike lanes" in major parts, allow bikes, motorcycles, mopeds, cars, and probably airplanes too) 

Took a break along the pass and spotted some lazy travelers snoring away in their tents. No bikes in sight, so I assume they are backpacking.

Yesterday I saw a bunch of signs warning drivers to the dangers of falling off cliffs around sharp corners. Not that it would be funny to see, but the image they chose to represent the hazard kept me chuckling for a good part of the day. And today, I laugh at the same warning signs for cyclists. I really want one, I wonder if I could order it on-line somehow....   

Gimbap is about as close to Japanese food as you are going to get in Korea. Essentially, its the most basic sushi roll you can have. And remember, that sushi refers to the type of rice used and the process the rice is subject to. Fish, or any toppings for that matter, need not apply. Gimbap however, is not made with sushi rice. So technically, technically, Gimbap is its own meal despite its superficially superfluous similarity to a Japnese maki roll.

There are all different types of Gimbap too, which I love. Just like the triangular onigiri snacks back home. If I had to learn Korean - which, people keep telling me is supper easy to pick up in a few days - I would learn it for the same reason I did Japanese: to learn what fills such snacks before I commit to purchasing one. In Japan, my Kanji comprehension grows geometrically with each new menu and explorations of foreign supermarkets. Anyways, here on this trip, although they say its easy to learn, almost everything in the convenience stores are also labeled in English.     

An inside look at the gimbap.

Also, you might be wondering why I am not inside at a restaurant cooled by the air-conditioning unit, enjoying a cushioned seat and helpings of ice water. Its not that I don't want it. Because Korean dinning is family style, that is, shared with the people you come with, single diners are not welcome all the time. Actually, not welcome most of the time. I have been denied to eat at small places along my way simply because I am alone. Moon warned me that the buffet style restaurants might turn me down because I am an "athlete." That is, they think they'd loose money on me, and rightfully so. However, the places I am being turned down from, as a willingful paying customer mind you, are just normal middle of the road luncheonettes! Well, if its the way they do things around here, I'll have to play ball. The whole situation has be sheepishly asking if its ok to eat any given establishment before I enter. Woof.

"No motorists allowed."  It makes for a no stress ride down the river coast. 

Finally making it down to the ocean coast after a sweet day of riding, all I am looking for now is the ferry dock where I can hitch a ride to Jeju. Again, the road conditions are in my favor; clean, straight without interruption, and free of just about everyone. 

Some cool art streamed along a river bank. I must have just missed a festival. 

More evidence that I had just missed a festival by a day, or perhaps even just a few hours. White tents covering tables and chairs lined the public peer between the city and the water, and I could still make out the slight smell of grilled chicken and cotton candy. At this point in the day, I was ready for some food. Although the cycle down along the river was not so rough, I'm famished from the heat and the process of looking for this international dock which out to stand out in some way. In addition, I am not sure what time the ferry will leave for Jeju island. I hope that I can still catch one today, however this puts a time crunch on my free time. 

And for a while, I was frustrated. I had cycled up along the docks for a good amount of time and still couldn't find the damn international dock. Google maps is useless in Korea, and I don't speak the language. 

I was stuck. Whats more, the frustration I felt was my own. I was beating myself up over finding this place in a hurry, and in doing so probably missed what had been right in front of my eyes. Realizing that I ought to give myself a break, I sat down at this bench to reassess. As I dismounted my bike and took seat to rest, a light came from behind the clouds and shined upon me. 

It really was not more than a few seconds after sitting down that it happened. It was so easy, so simple, so striking. Do you see it? I believed it when I saw it, yet I smirked in disbelief anyways. I just had to take a picture, and that is what you see here.  

Take a closer look. Straight through the white carnival tent which lined the peer in front of the bench on which I sat, in perfect sight, I could see what I had been looking for this whole time - the international ferry terminal is straight ahead.

As I rolled my bike inside the terminal I immediately spotted other cyclists with the same idea. I took a sigh of relief. Their bikes assured me that I did not miss the boat. 

I found some other cyclists (very easy to spot as the Koreans love to get all dressed up in spandex), and shot for a simple conversation. More body language than anything, I could piece together that the office would start selling tickets in a few moments, all I had to do was sit back and relax. 

When all was said and done, when my bike was lifted onto the ferry and I was resting in my seat on the boat to Jeju, I was happy. This is certainly not the same type of boat I arrived into Busan on. This was not a "stand up and walk around" deal. We were all assigned seats and we could not go outside to let our thoughts wonder. Not exactly unpleasant, but far from pleasant as well. Waiting...a thing I don't do very well. 

Free from the confines of the ship and snoring passengers, I pushed my bike off the boat and onto the Jeju peer around five in the evening. The day was still hot and humid and I got hungry along the way. With only a few hours of sunlight remaining, I thought it a perfect plan to wait out in a kitchen for a while in anticipation of the twilight before scouting a nice place to camp. 

While the town of Jeju itself was just big enough to be considered a small city, I still had to cycle a ways out of town after eating dinner to find a good place to camp. I knew that in the later days, this would become easier. Some more cyclists I had met along the ride told me two important facts: that most of Jeju is undeveloped, and its circumference is around 230 kilometers. The first fact was a blessing to hear, for having some long stretches of undisturbed cycling was what I seek. The second was also good to hear, if the roads hold up. If not, this trip might be disastrous.  

The city of Jeju is beautiful enough. Big on the tourist economy, Jeju is the cleanest city I have been to in Korea. Lots of shops and stuff I was eager to put behind me, I followed to coast for a nice ride away from the noise. Actually, it reminds me a lot of my home town of San Francisco. They even have fog. 

Like I said, Jeju is hot for tourists. 

The locals still maintained their presence though. Along the beach way, you can see them occupy the sports infrastructures in the way of basketball, soccer, and here what looks to be a game of foot-volleyball. Obviously from the man on the left returning the pass, head shots are also allowed.  

The route along the water is majestic. The hazy clouds in the sky did not allow for the most beautiful of evening skies but the smell of saltwater and some nice turn arounds kept my spirits high. You can see here the sun not being let out.  

Scratch that, the sun did come out for a second or two!

That was just about the end of my night. Amazing to think that I woke up on a couch this morning all the way in Gwangju to be setting up a tent on the island of Jeju so many kilometers and a boat ride away.

Most of what I saw today was city, not all bad. I am about 15 kilometers away from where the boat docked, almost at the edge of town. Tomorrow I think I will continue heading counterclockwise to the left around this island. Should definitely be in the middle of the black volcanic rock paths tomorrow, so I remain excited. Should be fun =)

Ok, thats all for now. A whole new island awaits tomorrow!

Love,
-A

Korea Day 10 - The New Plan

They tell me it's Monday morning.

But really, who knows. Joe had to get ready for work, so I guess that's a clue. From now I have no hanging schedule to keep other than making it home by the 8th of August for the much anticipated Yasokoi festival in Kochi. Look it up.

I am, however, keen on starting early in the day before the sun rise to cycle a bunch before the sun gets too hot. Anything between noon and 3:00pm these days is cycling harder, not smarter.  But, being a guest on the road comes with perks, one of which is sharing the morning with your host and saying a proper goodbye.

Somewhere between all the times I was ask, "where to after Guyre?" the idea came up about this southern island of Jeju to cycle around. Joe was very encouraging to the idea, said lots of cyclists take the boat in from Mokpo, only a two days cycle from where we are. Cycling around an ancient volcanic island in Korea? I love the idea; naturally.

What's more, on Jeju there is a boat that will carry me and my steel companion to Busan! This meant that I could cycle from Busan to Mokpo, Mokpo to and around Jeju island, then ferry back into Busan and not have to relive those traffic heavy roads I used to escape the port of Busan. From there, it's a simple ferry back into Japan. It was the perfect plan. The perfect new plan. So, off to Mokpo I went.

Joe's apartment. Looks small but actually larger than most Japanese apartments. You'll notice the piano in the act as Joes education is fittingly in music composition and theory. 

Making morning coffee, the hand ground beans, steamed milk kind of way.

A finished product. There can be much said about setting an automatic coffee drip machine "on" and reading the paper for a moment while you wait for that first cup of coffee.

Watching someone go through all the steps of selecting a good bag of beans my smell, a fresh grinding of them by hand crank, and all the filtering and care that can be put into just one cup of coffee - well it makes me want to take more control of my coffee process. Maybe I'll invest in a crank when I return to Japan....

I have a friend who doesn't like bananas. So this must not apatizing to her but to me it's iconic. Not only rare to see pancakes in Asia, banana pancakes with real maple syrup. Did I mention that Joe is Canadian? So you know we weren't messing around with the Aunt Jemima stuff. 

He is also quite a baker and surprised me by making these doughnut-hole type sweets for breakfast. I sampled some, but they were actually for his co-workers that morning out of kindness.

Since he himself has been on the recipient end of generosity so many times along his travels, today Joe was imparting gifts of nutrition my way in return. Home made scones, bananas, and some Korean quick energy bars to take with me. It's about as much a power snack grab bag as anyone could ask for!

Check out my wicked tan line! I don't keep it consistent because I have three pairs of shorts and they all very slightly in length. Still....dang! I've been outside and love it.

Saying goodbye to Joe was brief. We exchanged addresses and I invited him to stay with me in Japan. He is off to work, and I am working my way towards Guwangju.

One of the things I did before leaving Guyre was to grab a paper map. So glad that I did to find this lake half way between Guyre and the next city. It's always, always nice to ride between the land and bodies of water. Totally undisturbed. 

There are a surprising amount of these signs posted along today's route. And I laugh every single time.

A cool bridge which no cars crossed.

Going over the bodies of water. I could have ridden in the opposite lane if I so choose. Literally no one around.

I really love this. Today is the poster image for why I came to Korea: to see and cycle through a bunch of nature. The lakes and rivers are completely forgotten or at least unattended. Either way, I am not complaining. 

In Japan, all the rivers are cemented along their sides, eliminating bank erosion and to more accurately control potentio flood levels. It also subtracts from their beauty. Here, like Cambodia, rivers are unconstrained and free.

A good days cycle and I was back in the thick of smog, engine throttles, and crowded lanes. Gwangju is a gamble. The sidewalks are not in a condition for cycling. Every block abruptly ends in a sidewalk cliff, without a slope to gently ease down. There are slopes however, in the middle of blocks for every business driveway. Very backwards. Oh, and cars park on the sidewalk in Korea. And motor scooters are allowed to also drive the sidewalks. This is how I came to ride in the streets.

The streets, however, weren't that better. I once had a bus silently roll up beside me and I could feel it scrapping my left pannier bags. Locking me in between it, the curb, and into a collision course with a pile of city rubbish just ahead, (did I mention it was raining?) the situation got real serious, really quick. 

I survived by slamming on my breaks as the bus flushed by and proceeded to take up what was left of the "bike lane." Anyways, these things don't get easier but they do become more manageable. 

Hey! It's Craig! A last minute warm showers I pulled in Gwangju for just a night. He's been in Korea for three going on four years and shows it. Korean is very easy to read, but listening and speaking is where most forigners get tied up. Anyways, he has it all down pat, and even a Korean girlfriend living together. Which, I must say, is extremely rare in Asia. Since everyone lives at home until they are married, it just doesn't happen. Living alone is common enough, but living with your partner is just unheard of! 

Well, they knew it. And they were joking about it. The both of them are very cool/hip kids and I enjoyed the single together.  

Oh yeah, see? As soon as I pulled into town on my bike (before meeting Craig), the sky began to leak. Typical. 

To make up for any slight speed bumps along the way, Craig, his girlfriend Emily, and I went out for delicious Korean BBQ. This food never gets old. I must have had about five huge helpings of manderine salad and so much raw garlic and meat. I could get used to this =)

I'm 50/50 when it comes to ice cream. I have a sporadic intolerance to dairy. Some things set it off easier than others. But, when Emily walked out of the store after dinner with three (what do call these? Bags? Pouches?) ice creams, I couldn't say no. 

Later on I felt good, the ice cream had no effect on my gut. Although, this might be the case that there was not actual dairy in the dessert at all.

Late at night, we watch some American TV and played cards. I felt ad though I was back in Thailand, just meeting Nick and Harmony for the first time and, same as today, being hit hard with that unmistakable American way of life.

That's it for now, I'm resting up on a comfy couch and a full belly. I was able to do a load of laundry too. Really, with a roof, new friends, and a bottle of water thrown in to the mix, I couldn't ask for anything more.

All the best, goodnight.

-A