Japan Exodus - Day 6: A Detour Into The Mystical Valley Of Iya

Good morning! Warm water baths do wonders. From only the quick dip we sunk into the night before, I awoke this morning with new legs! I was, as the song goes, all revved up and ready to go. 

The view from the park we camped was one I did not expect to see from having set up camp in the dark the night before. A river, a few eager pink flowers blooming off the tree branches, and a swing set near by. The swings were low enough to crank out some pull ups, so we did. So easy to forget the upper body.

You can see these white cherry blossoms getting out of their buds ahead of the rest.  

Since we had crossed the mountains the day before, the day was an easy cycle into the Shikoku mountain valley. Climbing out of them will probably be just as nasty. The river passing through the valley is as wide as the mountains are tall. 

Just love the shadow lines and angles in this frame.

Cycling around the valley roads, Kyle called up to me. He spotted something a little off into an unbeaten path and wanted to check it out a little further. He can read a lot of Japanese kanji, but this pillar was indecipherable. We can only guess what the purpose of creating the obelisk is, and why it is lined so beautifully with a view of the city and cherry blossoms surrounding its significance.

The meaning or significance of the obelisk might have a reason or two to do with this, what I'm assuming is, sumo rink planted just a little further down the way.

Adjustments. Life is all about making tiny adjustments, even when the need for them comes at inconvenient moments, as in cycling up hill.

Kyle is just learning about the cyclist's never ending hunger. But on this day, it was I who was in starvation. We were teetering on a decision as to press on through the mountains west, take up a new route into the mythical Iya valley, or pitch tent and hang up for the day. Not wanting to make an important decision on a hungry belly, I advised we get something to eat and then make a plan. Sure as rain, we talked it out over udon and soba lunch bowls, and decided to backtrail just a little bit in order to see the Iya valley were an ancient Japanese clan fled persecution and sought solitude.

A beautiful damn on the way up the Iya valley. With the Sakura trees coming into full bloom, everything we see along the nature's path is worth stopping and taking in. 

Heigh above the mountain path, a statue of a boy pees freely off a steep cliff with his belly fully extended, and a hand behind his back as if to express both relaxing and relief simultaneously.

Me, giving my best pee-freely impersonation. 

A little further down the way rests this cool onsen inside a fancy hotel. There are many fancy hotels in this region of hills. This special one built a tram and rail to take you down into the river to enjoy your hot watered bath and soak. I think that if either Kyle or I were rich, we'd take a room and enjoy this treat. Not altogether impecunious, there are simply other luxuries I believe we'd rather send our yen on, like a really good meal. 

Here it is, a crossing of the river. Must have been around 5pm or so, and we should have preoccupied our time with finding shelter, but there was one more very important thing to see and do before camp.

This is the main attraction of the valley, a vine and twine bridge build too many years ago, used by that very Japanese clan seeking certain isolation. It's rumored that the bridge was constructed out of vine to make it easier to destroy, should they not want to be followed, or add time to their would be escape.

From the front angle.

The vines that embrace the pillars that support the bridge.

After a Snickers bar snack and a big climb up the descent we had to take in order to see the bridge, we came across a rest area. More like a roadside gift stop. Alas, there were bathrooms free to use, and a place to sleep. However, upon further exploration of where a particular set of conspicuous stairs led too, we found the ideal location. Might I even say, the most ideal. 

Here we were, under cover, with a view of the river that only the top stared hotels could offer. In fact, we could almost see into their rooms from where we camped. A bit raunchy, but nothing illegal, we set up camp and got to sleep listening to a waterfall that poured water from high up upon the mountain tops to the washing river in the great valley that so many people each year come to see. As of tonight, this night makes a strong candidacy for the top three camp spots I've had in Japan.

And that's where I'll have to leave off for today. We're safe but a little cold in the mountains again. We have food and water, and view to kill for. Looks like tomorrow we'll take that mid mountain ridge a little further west before attempting to climb out of the Shikoku valley, and reach the northern face of the island. If all goes well, should be a wonderful climb.

Much love,

-A

Japan Exodus - Day 5: Shikoku Frost

Good morning! It's a great day to wake up in the Shikoku mountains, there's nothing like it! Sure, it's cold, but we had cover. It rained a bit last night and there was a frost warning. But we campy off the grass and under some cover to avoid any frostbite. A local market provided everything we needed, including in the morning. We waited around and had breakfast here too.

Our sleeping pad for the night. A little cramped, but we made sure to leave enough room for anyone to walk by and use the restrooms we camped next too (all our stuff is usually inside our tents).

Continuing up the mountain range, we actually came across a lot of waterfalls. This was a really neat one because of all the brakes in its path down.

Me goofing off.

My bike in symmetry.

A scary rock tunnel not lined with cement braces or reinforced steel support beams. This was an old timey tunnel, the kind that simply chipped away at until you reached the other end.

If you can't image the kind of mountains we are crossing, go take a look at a topographical map of Shikoku. This terrain is nothing to sneeze at. We are tiney-tiny by comparison. As a matter of challenge, can you spot Kyle?

Don't confuse 16% slope with a 16° slope, they aren't the same. Truly, a photo cannot give you the correct impression of just how steep this hill remains. Did I mention we were going UP this monster?! As soon as I cycled up it, I cursed at it. (I think you see Kyle here misinterpreting my foul-mouthed cursing as chants of inspiration).

We kept cycling and cycling up what we made out to be the easier route yet it was anything but. As we looked down, we witnessed serene river scapes.

But as looked up, we could not ignore the approaching frost line. Yup, there be snow in them ther mountains.

I couldn't tell you it was our effort to climb up past the frost line. Up in the Shikoku snow that we were not prepared for, we at last found the overpass through the top of the mountain we were hoping for. It came in the form of a tunnel, and you'll have to remind me about the quirkiest Japanese grandmother Jojobas witness I've ever met in my life. She was a character!

(Side note: Kyle took a photo with his camera. I assume we'll exchange trip photos after he gets back into his town, and I'll update all of those for you).

So, one really cool thing about mountainous Japan is that the more up you go, there is an equal increase in frequency of onsens. There was one not too far were we wanted to camp. So, we scuffled together some clean clothes, took a well needed onsen dip, got drunk and watched some Japanese high school baseball, ate curry, pushed our bikes up the last hill (as to avoid accumulating any unwanted stress only just melted away from the onsen), rolled them down the other side, and set up camp at an out of the way park next to a river and under the budding Sakura trees.

Very Japanese. This is the view from inside the restaurant provided by the onsen. Not at all bad.

Well, that's it. We've pitched our tents and couldn't hardly say goodnight before falling into a deep sleep. It's late, it's very cold despite no longer camping the mountains, and I'm almost out of battery. But hey, there are worst things to complain about, I'm riding my f*#king bike through Japan.

Love,
-A

Japan Exodus - Day 4: Pampered Necessities

We had planned to sleep at our friends house. Jeff, who majored in Japanese literature, had left for the weekend and we thought to use his pad in his absence. He had left for the weekend, though he had also not left his window open. He sometimes does, sometimes doesn't. He said we were welcome to stay if he hadn't. In this case, we shrugged and camped on a little patch of land outside his apartment. All was well.


In the next town over, we came to an public rest stop. Normally, these rest stops retain the normal vending machines offering hot and cold drinks, sometimes ice cream, always clean restrooms. However today we find ourselves at a rest station along the way of a pilgrimage route. The 88 temples of Shikoku pilgrimage is immensely popular and now, I'm early spring, all the pilgrims start making their moves clockwise around the island in hopes of completing the journey before typhoon season hits.

Anyways, in observation of the pilgrimage route, this particular rest stop offers a rare hot water foot bath for us travelers to soak our feet.


As you can see, we took full advantage.


My view as I soaked. A tank of goldfish that swam around mid eye level as if they were flying but only at low levels, was the illusion. And in the far back, outside and behind the field, the castle we expect to see at the bottom of the fish tank next to a scuba diver and perhaps some barrier treasure, set high above the mountain.

Right behind were we bathed our feet was a man selling cured fish he had fished himself. The vacuum sealed packaging prevented any sensual aromas from capturing potential customers from wandering in for a closer look. To counter this, the salesman provided free samples and a story to those passing by. The method obviously works well, as both Kyle and I probably had more than our fair sampling, and bought some some fish to save for later. The hook, he told us the fish we choose paired well with beer. At least he didn't lie.

Some crazy cyclist we met soon after pulling into town. He's from Tokyo, taking a trip around Skikoku to visit all 88 temples. You can identify the pilgrims easily by the white grabs the wear and by the signature pointed hat cover (not pictured). 

Still early spring, the Sakura flowers haven't fully come out to play yet. In another week, or maybe even in a few days, looking up at these trees will yield a completely, more colorful, scene.

You can see, the buds are developed, and flowers just waiting for a little more warmth to burst out and signify the true realization of spring.

We visited a temple just inside town, one of the 88 actually. With a few more that I visited in Kouchi, I'm floating around 10 total. A few more to go!

You can see from the view atop the higher steps the incredible view you get from each temple. Certainly where Christian churches are often positioned at the highest point in town, these pilgrimage temples are positioned at the most lovely.

Our first look back at the work we put in. You can see just the last reminisce of town there at the valley.

Stopping off for photos, bridges always make a choice viewing opportunity if you can manage to stop off and gander. That's one of the many benefits to traveling by bike, no hassle double parking.

This is so cool. After climbing all day and a soft descent, we saw this very small, concentrated village of old Japanese houses completely alone in the mountains with little more than a dirt road running through it. The still river below just captured the emotion of isolation and sufficiency perfectly.

Further up the mountain range, an old beer vending machine crossed our path. This machine must be at least 30 or even 40 years old.

Maybe I'm wrong, but from these 2 litter beer options, and the absence of them today, maybe the locals did more drinking back then than today. 

We had stopped off at a tiny hole-in-the-wall grocery store to pick up some dinner because we didn't image their being many food options up in these small mountain towns. And we were right. Despite having schools and post offices and police stations, not a public restaurant in sight. Most of these people forage, garden, and/cook their own meals with very little outside help. Maybe a trip to the grocery store ever now and again.

As for us, we need food now, and we needed it again. The old woman was very sweet, and impressed with our efforts to make it to her town. She know the roads well she said, and could never imagine cycling up this way.

We asked her for some tuna (insanely cheap), bought some pickled veggies, and sushi. She offered us a strawberry each (insanely expensive) and handed us some warm coffee to regain our spirits. The coffee did its trick, but honestly, not as much as the fresh tuna shashimi we ate overlooking the construction of a new bridge being built.

The food we bought from the grocery. What a nice woman, she even cut the piece up for us and gave soy sauce and wasabi too.

That night, we set up camp at a farmers market, were there was plenty of cover to protect us from the one forecasted night of rain. After setting up tents and putting gear away, Kyle took a walk around town and came back with beer. We are the smoked fish we bought earlier that day and talked Japanese culture overlooking the rocky river, as three Japanese cranes hunted the river fish and amphibians.

And that's it for tonight; from foot baths to fresh shashimi over a still river under a cloudy and starry night. Can't help to feel that although we are essentially homeless bums, we are at the same time very pampered in necessities. Good company, good food, good scenery. Tomorrow looks like a lot of climbing, but that also usually means a lot of good views too.

Love,
-A

Japan Exodus - Day 3: The Big Day

Today is the big day!! I cycled across new territories of Shikoku to come meet my friend, he's all done with work and packed, we're well rested, and the sun and wind appear to be in our favor. Nothing left to do but to start that first pedal revolution and be on the way, on the road again.



Meet my friend Kyle. We work for the same company, so we knew each other from the previous year. Although already a strong outdoorsy person, he has never cyclo-toured. So, I feel this trip will be extra memorable for him.


And here I am next to a much slimmer and light weight bike thanks to me shipping some unneeded items off after making some adjustments. Life all about adjustments.


What an omen! So cool when this happens. Just hanging out in the parking lot talking bikes with Kyle, our packed picked ready to go, and this older fellow calls to us with some love sweet bean cakes in his hand. So cool. He wished us good luck on our journey and told us to take care before jumping in his beach cruiser and fumbled down to the end of the street, swung a left, and disappeared.

I almost forgot to take a picture before we ate them all as a pre breakfast snack to get us to our next checkpoint.


Our first destination is a temple where a (not joking) 80's hair band rock and roller guitar player is now a Buddhist monk living in celibacy. Amazing. I was very eager to meet this character and wondered if I could pick out any 80's rock and roll lifestyle mannerisms from his words and actions.

Alas, no one was home. Still cool to check out this cool temple, the view is amazing, as you can see.


From just outside the temple looking in.


After that, we started an ascent up the hills to the North. The trees gave us some shade, yet I still ended up with a tan. I have to remember to keep using sun block.


Up in theses regions, the water is so clear you can't never see the bottom.


So, the entire reason we took this detour is to see waterfalls! Never have I yet met someone who did not want to go see a waterfall. And for good reason. (Remember that rock sitting atop this waterfall for later).


Actually, the location we've cycled up to translates as "99 waterfalls." And there certainly are a lot. Of the larger ones, there are eight, and smaller ones almost everywhere you can walk. This one is my favorite.


Another beautiful drench of water.


Right, so remember that rock I asked you to remember? At the very bottom of this photograph you can see the tip of that rock. This is me being stupid and climbing up to the edge of a giving rock to catch a cool photo. Near the top of the pic, you can see where I was standing before.


Again, the clarity of water never leaves me without wonder. I hate to think of the day when you can't see water so clear you'd think it was air. The crystal clear water swept across this rock so majestically it looked like wet glass.

Because of all the water, every rock is slippery and a little dangerous. We were careful. Something so refreshing to be surrounded in mist.


After what seemed a 2 hour descent from the mountain tops, we were starved! Only an onigiri or three for lunch, I almost forgot about the legendary cyclist's hunger! That unquenchable yearn, that bottomless stomach, that "I better stop, or I won't be able to pay my bill" kind of hunger. One trick, that we did today, is to not finish your ramen broth after you eat your ramen noodles. For a mere 150 more yen, you can ask for another batch of noodles to chow down on. Good eats, good eats, good eats.


Home for the night. We've earned a good rest. We approximate at least 80km today. Not bad at all considering today being his first run!


I ran into a small problem when my sister and I came to Japan two years ago. I had a tent I had been using in South East Asian for a year. However, it's a solo, and we both couldn't fit. So Gabi, my sister, brought my other two person tent, and we slept in that. But when she left, I somehow kept both. Anyways, the solo tent is now Kyle's.


And that's where I leave you tonight. Super tired, super full, and supper happy. Tomorrow will be a different rhythm and most likely stay up in the mountains where although spring has sprung, is still very cold....

Love,
-A