Korea Day 10 - The New Plan

They tell me it's Monday morning.

But really, who knows. Joe had to get ready for work, so I guess that's a clue. From now I have no hanging schedule to keep other than making it home by the 8th of August for the much anticipated Yasokoi festival in Kochi. Look it up.

I am, however, keen on starting early in the day before the sun rise to cycle a bunch before the sun gets too hot. Anything between noon and 3:00pm these days is cycling harder, not smarter.  But, being a guest on the road comes with perks, one of which is sharing the morning with your host and saying a proper goodbye.

Somewhere between all the times I was ask, "where to after Guyre?" the idea came up about this southern island of Jeju to cycle around. Joe was very encouraging to the idea, said lots of cyclists take the boat in from Mokpo, only a two days cycle from where we are. Cycling around an ancient volcanic island in Korea? I love the idea; naturally.

What's more, on Jeju there is a boat that will carry me and my steel companion to Busan! This meant that I could cycle from Busan to Mokpo, Mokpo to and around Jeju island, then ferry back into Busan and not have to relive those traffic heavy roads I used to escape the port of Busan. From there, it's a simple ferry back into Japan. It was the perfect plan. The perfect new plan. So, off to Mokpo I went.

Joe's apartment. Looks small but actually larger than most Japanese apartments. You'll notice the piano in the act as Joes education is fittingly in music composition and theory. 

Making morning coffee, the hand ground beans, steamed milk kind of way.

A finished product. There can be much said about setting an automatic coffee drip machine "on" and reading the paper for a moment while you wait for that first cup of coffee.

Watching someone go through all the steps of selecting a good bag of beans my smell, a fresh grinding of them by hand crank, and all the filtering and care that can be put into just one cup of coffee - well it makes me want to take more control of my coffee process. Maybe I'll invest in a crank when I return to Japan....

I have a friend who doesn't like bananas. So this must not apatizing to her but to me it's iconic. Not only rare to see pancakes in Asia, banana pancakes with real maple syrup. Did I mention that Joe is Canadian? So you know we weren't messing around with the Aunt Jemima stuff. 

He is also quite a baker and surprised me by making these doughnut-hole type sweets for breakfast. I sampled some, but they were actually for his co-workers that morning out of kindness.

Since he himself has been on the recipient end of generosity so many times along his travels, today Joe was imparting gifts of nutrition my way in return. Home made scones, bananas, and some Korean quick energy bars to take with me. It's about as much a power snack grab bag as anyone could ask for!

Check out my wicked tan line! I don't keep it consistent because I have three pairs of shorts and they all very slightly in length. Still....dang! I've been outside and love it.

Saying goodbye to Joe was brief. We exchanged addresses and I invited him to stay with me in Japan. He is off to work, and I am working my way towards Guwangju.

One of the things I did before leaving Guyre was to grab a paper map. So glad that I did to find this lake half way between Guyre and the next city. It's always, always nice to ride between the land and bodies of water. Totally undisturbed. 

There are a surprising amount of these signs posted along today's route. And I laugh every single time.

A cool bridge which no cars crossed.

Going over the bodies of water. I could have ridden in the opposite lane if I so choose. Literally no one around.

I really love this. Today is the poster image for why I came to Korea: to see and cycle through a bunch of nature. The lakes and rivers are completely forgotten or at least unattended. Either way, I am not complaining. 

In Japan, all the rivers are cemented along their sides, eliminating bank erosion and to more accurately control potentio flood levels. It also subtracts from their beauty. Here, like Cambodia, rivers are unconstrained and free.

A good days cycle and I was back in the thick of smog, engine throttles, and crowded lanes. Gwangju is a gamble. The sidewalks are not in a condition for cycling. Every block abruptly ends in a sidewalk cliff, without a slope to gently ease down. There are slopes however, in the middle of blocks for every business driveway. Very backwards. Oh, and cars park on the sidewalk in Korea. And motor scooters are allowed to also drive the sidewalks. This is how I came to ride in the streets.

The streets, however, weren't that better. I once had a bus silently roll up beside me and I could feel it scrapping my left pannier bags. Locking me in between it, the curb, and into a collision course with a pile of city rubbish just ahead, (did I mention it was raining?) the situation got real serious, really quick. 

I survived by slamming on my breaks as the bus flushed by and proceeded to take up what was left of the "bike lane." Anyways, these things don't get easier but they do become more manageable. 

Hey! It's Craig! A last minute warm showers I pulled in Gwangju for just a night. He's been in Korea for three going on four years and shows it. Korean is very easy to read, but listening and speaking is where most forigners get tied up. Anyways, he has it all down pat, and even a Korean girlfriend living together. Which, I must say, is extremely rare in Asia. Since everyone lives at home until they are married, it just doesn't happen. Living alone is common enough, but living with your partner is just unheard of! 

Well, they knew it. And they were joking about it. The both of them are very cool/hip kids and I enjoyed the single together.  

Oh yeah, see? As soon as I pulled into town on my bike (before meeting Craig), the sky began to leak. Typical. 

To make up for any slight speed bumps along the way, Craig, his girlfriend Emily, and I went out for delicious Korean BBQ. This food never gets old. I must have had about five huge helpings of manderine salad and so much raw garlic and meat. I could get used to this =)

I'm 50/50 when it comes to ice cream. I have a sporadic intolerance to dairy. Some things set it off easier than others. But, when Emily walked out of the store after dinner with three (what do call these? Bags? Pouches?) ice creams, I couldn't say no. 

Later on I felt good, the ice cream had no effect on my gut. Although, this might be the case that there was not actual dairy in the dessert at all.

Late at night, we watch some American TV and played cards. I felt ad though I was back in Thailand, just meeting Nick and Harmony for the first time and, same as today, being hit hard with that unmistakable American way of life.

That's it for now, I'm resting up on a comfy couch and a full belly. I was able to do a load of laundry too. Really, with a roof, new friends, and a bottle of water thrown in to the mix, I couldn't ask for anything more.

All the best, goodnight.

-A 

Korea Day 9 - A Rest, Rest Day Up Mt. Jirisan

Hmm, today is a much welcomed rest day. 

Nice and tired, still a little wobbly, and happy in Korea. Besides that one day off in Busan to explore the beaches and markets, I have been on my bike everyday since leaving home. It's a good schedule, one easier to keep when you are alone. I may have mentioned this somewhere before in an unrelated post, but my travels don't revolve around many tourist attractions or landmarks or temples much when I'm alone. With accompaniment I'm eager to see what there is to see. But when I'm alone it's all about the cycling. 

And even if today were the worst day on account of the heat and my physical condition after a night like last, it's still about the cycling. 

So this morning, after Joe made some damn fine world class coffee (we exchanged addresses to send each other respective regional coffee varieties), I made a quick list of things I'll take with me up to the top of Jirisan, the tallest point on mainland Korea - it is a main tenant for coming to Korea, and now cane time to kick it in the ass.

So today wouldn't be a "rest" day, it would just have to be a rest day. 

The bikes nestling up next to each other. Surlys are immensely popular among cyclotourists. Chris, Rajiv, Go, Yoshi, Phil and Heather, Joe here and I just to name a few of the ones I've come across. Mostly using the Long Haul Trucker style frame, compared to my half road bike, the Cross Check. There are many small variations between the two frame styles, but on the fear of loosing you to an ocean of superfluous details, I'll leave the details between the frames up to your research curiosity. 

After coffee, I felt....Ok. In truth I'd rather have not done what I'm about to do, but sometimes you have to follow through with a plan, no matter the slight discomforts. Coffee can actually make things worse, as the hot caffeine dehydrates your body. And without all the bells and whistles, a hangover is essentially your body in a dehydrated state.

Anyways, wasn't feeling at the top of my game, or hungry. Experience thought me, however, that I would need to eat anyways. Climbing up mount Jirisan won't come easier on an empty stomach. So, I found an open restaurant, played a little Korean menu roulette, and nurished up.  

The main course was actually quite good! A beef soup layered with flavors matched well with the preselected side dishes. Soup is just what I needed. I felt really full afterwards but really good at the same time. I was as ready as I could be for something like what was to come, nothing left to do but to do it. 

Cycling up - was not easy. Sure the way to the base was slight enough, even the small climb to the national park entrance gate was Ok. That first part gave me a little insight to the switchback rhythm that would persist across the life of the climb. 

After paying my entrance fee however, things started to get rough. A simple two lane road ensured little room for errors, and would exacerbate a driver's frustrations. I had at times no room on the shoulder. 

The turns on the switch backs came out the worst. Taking the inside lane on a steep inclined turn quickly meant that I'd jump from a grueling 13% climb into a 20% for the pass. The 20% doesn't last long but it does complicate the process of keeping safe. For example: once there was a car descending, one coming up from my rear, and we all three just so met at such a steep turn that I'm not sure how we all made it. Often times, cars rush down the left lane.

Not that the way up was all in fact horrible. Under many, many honks from cars warning me that they'd soon overtake, I did get one clear honk of encouragement paired with kids cheering from the back seat. That felt really good, since it's such a rare expression to offer me in Korea, and even Japan. South East Asian countries, this sort of thing happened all the time and I do miss it.

And while I was the only one making my way up, I did see many vans carrying mountain bikes up to the top as frequently as I saw mountain bikers zipping down past me in full gear at 70km/hour. Way to concentrated on not crashing at the point, I understandably drew little attention from them. 

Success!! There is a false summit that actually looks like where one would stop. Music, food, shops, etc. I paused for a moment only to notice that actually there was maybe another kilometer and half worth to reach the actual tip top, or, as far as the road would take me on my bike.

This photo was taken at that spot.

The view from the top, leaning over the edge a bit. Nothing around for miles and miles; the air was super fresh and I loved the look from people who looked "tired" from having driven up here. Almost everyone was fanning themselves for being away from their air conditioning, and eating ice cream. 

By the time I had reached the top I was all good and sweaty. Covered in it from head to toe, I walked over to a shady tree and rested a bit.

View from the other side. Somewhere down there is my passport, other belongings, and sleeping friends. Except Joe of course, whose training for Iron Man and needed to pull off a 80min run in this heat. Hats off.

I'm glad I remembered that my camera had a countdown feature to have taken this photo because it's one of my favorites. Simply rested the iPod against my helmet in an empty space and viola! 

My father once told me that it's good to feel tired. I can't disagree.

Now, I had learned my lesson from going down Mt. Fuji. That descent was cold, cold, cold. This time, I came prepared and although this round was not as bad, I was thankful for the glasses and mask as they may have saved my life (and helmet) by not having to wipe bugs/road debris/earth from off my face and eyes.

On the way down, brimming with pride, shinning with accomplishment, I had to still stop and just appreciate the Guyre scenery.

Since Joe was still out on a run, I stopped by a corner stop to re-up on fluids when, who but Joe, finds me. 

Hungry from his workout too, we ducked into a little place and ordered awesome bibimbap! We both plowed through our meals. I was super tired afterwards and could use a nap, so it's what I did. Joe said he wanted to hit up a coffee shop, so that's what he did.

Awaking to the sound of Joe coming home, I had slept a good while. Just enough anyways for second dinner =)

Returning to the very un-Korean motif bar we drank last night, I learned that food was also available. A simple set but very delicious plate of food came with conversation from the chef, Joe, and I. I beer would have been nice to curve the remaining bits of my hangover, but I declined.

Ten minutes later and I was chomping down on some fried pork cutlet, salad, mashed potatoes, and slices of peach.

And so ended my day, the day, the reason I came to Korea. I had gone up and down the tallest peak around. I had completed what I had set out to do. Yet, I still have time before I plan to be home for a very special Yosakoi festival in Kōchi, Japan. 

I'm in the middle of the country, with not even a direction to start off in tomorrow. Should I turn around East and bike back to Busan? I could go South or West and explore some more. When faced with open road, it can be a little daunting to choose your own destiny. Lucky for me I have a little experience with this, and the advice of friends to go on.

We'll see where tomorrow takes us.

-A

Korea Day 8 - Leading Up To A Rough Start

Refreshed from the good nights sleep, and the only kind of pride I can find from cycling a bike tuned with these two hands, there was nothing today that could keep me down. 

I had a good distance to cover into Guyre because of the route I choose. Mountains be damned, I could always use more training. Especially from what people telling me cycling mount Jirisan is. They like to use the word "impossible."

I'm all about sybolism at times like this. What a perfectly set photo opportunity for the first picture of the day. Only 30 min into my day's ride and both my bike and I grew wings.

I guess you could say we needed them, the wings. And I guess I should have learned this lesson a while back: squiggly lines on maps don't always stand for mountain passes, and straight lines don't always mean flat roads. 12% slope for about 2km, but at least it was consistent.

The look back down the road after the crest. Just straight, steep, and mean.

What must go up, must come down. 

Aha! I am getting close now. I'm seeing signs for my final destination, mount Jirisan. It's close, I should be seeing it along my way to Guyre. Interesting too to notice the same Kanji used in Korea for mountain, 山.

Along another climb through the wooded hills, I stopped off to wipe the sweat from my helmet and take in some water. What I wasn't expecting, what happened is, an elderly woman sprang from her little shop, the only thing open at the top of the crest, walking over to me with a smile. 

Moon mentioned to me in Busan that you can find the younger generation speaking English, but little chance with the older. That had to be the case here. But, the woman and I talked anyways with our hands as much as our mouths. Then she disappeared without saying goodbye. Nice enough lady though.

So I strapped on my helmet, stretched my fingers and checked my breaks in preparation for another 14% descent. Both feet on the bike, I could only manage one stroke before a yell from behind grabbed my attention. The old woman had appeared with cookie snacks  and some ice with water. How perfect =)

I tried to pay here, but she wouldn't take my money. So, we compromised and I bought a cup of coffee from her to go with the cookies - all of which where devoured on the spot. And what I noticed from sitting at her table outside the shop, that she's a cycling fan! Or, at least, her attention was devoted to the Tour on TV.

Do you this man? Points if you do. I guess he's been hiding out in small town South Korea and giving secret art lessons on the down-low.

Right. So, lunch. I don't know any Korean after: hello, goodbye, thank you, and how much. Numbers 1-10 help, but are difficult to me for some reason. Anyways, this makes ordering very fun! It's like Russian roulette every time I go out to eat. Lucky for me, there's always unlimited side dishes to gobble up! 

Here is one of my favorites. I know Harmony would think it weird when I ate raw garlic in Thailand, but I love it. In Korea, it's one of my favorite sides. Peeled raw garlic with a spicy sauce. It's like dropping a lit cherry bomb into your system but it's so damn good at the same time =)

I have no idea what this soup is. Greens, a little salty, and lots of baby shell creatures at the bottom. Not bad, could be worse.

Today, much like yesterday, I'm lucky to be experiencing so much rural nature. This is what I came to see, it's what I was hopping for. The town of Guyre didn't look all that big on the map, and the scenery leading up to it sure didn't disappoint. 

This is a long stretch of river with sandy beaches that stretched out for the better part of it. No complaints, although I wish I could burn a day and camp out here.

Or, camp here =) I said before that the food situation really reminds me of Malaysia, and the plethora of available gazeboes is another similarity. Literally, you don't have to cycle too far to ever find an unoccupied place to rest, nap, tent.  

And, because it was just too perfect an opportunity, I seized the chance to stretch my legs on some treated wood among the birds, wind, and the sound of lazy water working its way down the river.

Small moments like this stick out more than any tourist attraction I could ever visit.

The view over the peer at the gazebo.

Look at this lake! Even if you are not a water spirit, you have to appreciate this. I had to stop on a two lane, no shoulder bridge for this photo, but it's so worth it.

Meet Joe (the teacher)! Wow, so much to say about Joe, I think even now a few days after meeting him, I'm still taking all the experience in.

Canadian, bike enthusiast, no stranger to touring, coffee lover, map lover, and an iron man competitor in training are all things which just only begin to chip away at this positive spirit.

Again, a first time WarmShower host in Korea, Joe was happy to share ideas and stories, and advice about all things concerning the trip West and beyond. I think we talked routes immediately, and never really stopped until we finally said goodbye, as it happens.

Joe also brought me up to speed on Gimbap which I had accident ordered by accident before. You could called this the poor man's sushi, and you'd be wrong. Not that it's inexpensive, only that it's not cheap in quality. A great snack, I am sure that gimbap will rest high on the traveling snack list because they're small, compact, package well, and come on all types - including kimchi!

There are certain assumptions that simply come with staying in a WarmShowers that you don't expect anywhere else. 

We know there is likely laundry to be done aside from a real warm shower, and a cyclist's appetite attached to the end of the day. We must have not even passed an hour or so after eating the gimbap before meeting up with some other international friends (some there just for a night or two as I am) for Vietnamese food in Korea.  

Of course, after the sabu-sabu, what are two Americans, a Canadian, Korean, and two Chinese to do on a Saturday night but keep drinking at the local bar? We also had a fair three more Europeans with us pictured in another photo that I may or may not post. 

Anyways, I really miss this sort of small setting and bar. One or two tables along the wall, but any good company worth their salt knows that you want a set at the bar to meet new folks. It's a move I hardly see in Japan, where people usually go in groups and only stick to their preordained circles. In any case, good times all around. 

Haha, and of course after many beers and soju, we karaoked. A hell of a night!

Well, my friend Chris loves to say that hindsight is always 20/20. He might have a good point here, as I somewhere forgot between the the rounds of beers and teaching/learning international drinking games that I had to go cycle the tallest mountain in the country the following day. In hindsight, I should have played the partying down a bit, or completely. But, on the other hand, I would be breaking a major personal montra, "be happy." 

Tomorrow the big (and steep!) day, rough starts be damned.

Love,

-A