Thailand - I Didn't Want To Leave Without First Saying Hello

Two weeks ago I began a small pilgrimage that I now have the mind the write. This moment of concentration is brought to you, in all complete seriousness, between action sequences of a deliciously bad Chuck Norris film. Most of you know how truly I enjoy bad movies enough to agree that this post comes under the full weight of inspiration rather than a dull moment of wasting time between wasting time. It is not.

(Very quick side bar: how bad a movie you ask? It's so tastefully ill scripted that the two sentence summery on the back of the DVD box holds more promise for winning the Pulitzer Prize than any one small breath of the dialogue; it's so bad, so very defective, that the blurb praising the movie misspells Chuck Norris' name. Yeah.)

Now then, a few things first. It's been made apparent that Steve, Rajiv, and I have all taken solo tours at some point or another along the way. Biking alone is something you can only experience and there is not much else like it. No cavalry, no one for you at the end of the day, no sense of companionship. Perhaps that is why Chris sought it out; he's never toured alone. Hence, in Bangkok, we parted ways. He to the north to see a friend by train, Rajiv and I continued cycling South, initiating the first day of the pilgrimage. 

What is a pilgrimage? A journey, a quest, an homage? 

No, not "Welcome to ..acha City." The sign is supposed to read, " WELCOME TO SRI ACHA!" Or, that's the way I would have it read. A little anticlimactic to see the old city in part ruins, but Thailand is an old place.

Catch up time. If you don't know, Sriracha is a popular food condiment made in California. Though the red sauce is advertised as hot and spicy, it's more of a mild topping that affords its taste to go along beautifully with any food. Think Ketchup's older, sexier sister. According to legend, the town where the spice originates from is only a days trip out from Bangkok. Road trip? You bet your ass. 

So then, being so close, I could not continue heading north without saying Hello. And as any good travel mate will do, Raj came in support.

In the spirit of making sacrifices along my travels, my cycling jersey now has a new home. We couldn't understand a word this old man said, he who lived under the temple awnings. Then again, words are not always needed. Neither are materials. Shirts, books, earrings be damed. As soon as he asked for the shirt I had put on that morning, I knew what the result must be. The exchange was not any sense of righteousness on my part. Off my back and into his hands, we had the invaluable blessings of a stranger. "What if God was one of us?" - wouldn't you be kind to a man with no home too?

There it is, our destination for the day. Only 35km to do and it was about noon? Too easy.

One of the things you'll have to get used to in Asia are the multiple versions of spellings for the same name. So close now...

The trip would not have been destined should we have not met another cyclist. That we did, assures me that we ride the correct path. Plus, check out his situation - three small bags on an aluminum bike! What!? Crazy man. From Indonesia, Danrose is making his solo trip into India. Hopefully Chris is out there meeting other cool cyclist too.

And so we made it to Si Racha with time to explore. Explore we did. Looking at the map, it was possible to visit a small coastal island not popular with the tourists. Translation, we bought two ferry tickets.

The hill top view of Si Racha. Majestic.

Si Racha is located right on the beach. An excellent place to visit, though you won't hear it's praise in most traveler books - the city is trying to keep small.

Bikes on boats do not match. The crew never knows the best way to handle them, bikes are awkwardly set down, and bags are sometimes dislodged. (Robert, whose wooden home we stay in tonight, told us of how his rear derailleur broke once as caused by a crew mishandling his bike).

At least I got this picture. Worth the salt water that sprayed over our uncovered bikes? We'll wait and see.

Rajiv and I did our homework. We looked around, saw a couple of temples (or in worse case an open field) to spend the night. Except for larger cities, we've never really been turned down for a place to sleep.

This night was of no exception...except for the small little detail of our illegal breaking and entering...let me explain.

When arrived at the temple there were no light on and the gate was shut but it had not been locked. Whats more, there was no one to greet us, not even the everpressent agressive pack of stray dogs that live off the monk's kindness to all animals. A little strange but not out of the occasional occurrence. Sometimes the monks pray until 20:00. But no dogs? Fine. We figured the day was still early so we left for dinner and agreed to come back.

The situation had not changed when we returned. A little stumped, a young woman from across the street thankfully noticed Rajiv and my moment of comfusion. She helped us open the closed gate and look around for someone to speak with. We all did our best - with no luck. 

The day was over, the wind began its cool breeze (we're someway halfway up the island mountain), we were no longer hungry tho ready for rest. Out helper shrugged her shoulders and returned home, leaving us outside. But, with one great factor still in play - the gate remained unlocked.

Well, how mad could they be?

Naturally, we pitched our tents in the dark and only later did we realize the truth. Bikes locked away, teeth brushed, night time reading books poised sleepily out in front of our small head lamps, we were already falling into dreamland when the room suddenly came fully illuminated with fluorescent light. We had been found.

Already unzipping his tent, Raj was ready to jump up and explain why we had come to opening their gates, used their showers, and set up in a small corner of the dinning room. As I joined them, it became obvious something was wrong.

In fact, there were no worries regarding the illegal entering, it was fine that we used their showers and refilled our bottles with water. No, what the much bigger misact we commited was that we had planted ourselves in an all women's Buddhist sanctuary. 

Awk-word.

Two smelly cyclists walking around in our underwear, talking to the head nun about our troubles, asking for a place to sleep in a territory made solely for people of the opposite sex/gender. Granted, breaking and entering to a Thai woman's temple to spend the night is not the worst thing I've done in my life. Makes for a great story too.

Where we ended up spending the night. High above, and high away from, the first location we set up next to all the female temple residents.

Well we must have done something right because we got invited to breakfast the next morning.

Trays of food endlessly wheeled past us. You could collect as much as you could eat.

My breakfast that morning. I didn't eat again till late that night, consequently. 

We thanked our understanding hosts with gratitude and took them up on their suggestion: ride to the top of the island mountain and visit the monk there.

This small cave is a shrine of sorts. Intimate and revered as a holy location, the cave is the direct opposite to some of the most spectacular views on the island. 

The mountain monks home. People bring him (all monks really) food in the morning, more than enough for one person. Living under the tress...I tell ya, not a bad life! Not a bad life at all...

The view from one side of the mountain.

The view from the other side. Rajiv and I spent a good conversation here. Reflecting on our separate travels, watching the trees sway, throwing movie and Seinfeld quotes in the air for a reminiscent laugh. Time has no authority here; busyness, a stranger.

The night and day on the island is something I will always remember. Si Racha is a wonderful place to visit. And, as if it needs another reason, a Cafe Bike is there for you to gander and nosh. 

Who knows, you might even meet a member of the Si Racha cycling team sponsored by Trek. The kid, Bright is his name, has things going for him. He bought us dinner and showed us to another temple where we might spend a last night in Si Racha. 

(No picture available). However, I will recant the last night in Si Racha because the experience has come to be a measure of sorts. Whenever someone says they don't have much to offer us travelers, I assure them that anything is better than what we had this night. 

Indeed, we slept with "a tin roof over our heads." The place must have been abandoned for years; the curious vines and nomatic insect colonies its only residents. ...after a night under a tin shack, well, anything more than that is a blessing."

Here is a common shot that I take from time to time. It's nice to remember just what our feet do for us, and to see the world as they might. Here, we rode through so much rain and mud that my all black shoes turn a ghostly white.  

That's all for now. I have many things to attend to before light. As always, I miss you all. 

Love,

-A

Thailand - Photo Shorts

The beaches are stunning, the people are indeed friendly, and everything is cheap in Thailand. 

I've been enjoying my travels so much everyday (among doing some serious tour cycling) that I am having difficulty in creating categories to share with you in my blog, as is the case from time to time. 

Since leaving our Texan friends we've bathed in Nature's warm water, Chris has splintered off (he'll be back), Rajiv and I have extended our riding streak to eleven days, saw a three headed elephant, stayed with more cool hosts, and of course ate more delicious food. 

Photo by Rajiv. Always good to see the kids out on bikes. Thumbs up!

We got wind one morning of a natural hot springs to visit. Touristy perhaps, but worth the time and money - I owe my bones that much. However, after searching for a good hour, the entrance to the hot springs could not be found. Sad, a little frustrated and let down, we were about to pack up when a monk clad in the unmistakable orange robe theatrically walked out from an encroaching misty road. No words were exchanged other than "hot" and a his mime for a shower. Enough said. We ditched our bikes and jumped in our swimming trunks, a little worried that the man would walk off faster than we could catch him. But we did, and kept pace to this secret location. No entrance fee, no people. Bones, you are welcome.

Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh.....

One of the temples we've stayed at. Why did we spend so many nights in hotels? 

I marvel at these plants. At first, I thought them man made, the way they are so perfectly patterned. But no, Nature has surprised me once again.

Update: My mother equally amazes me, with all the knowledge and information she keeps at the ready about anything regarding anything flora. She wrote me an email immediately after I wrote this post:

"...The flat palm like tree is Ravenala Madagascariensis and is called traveler's palm. They can grow up to 40 feet in hight. Water collects in the nooks where the leaves join the trunk; thirsty travelers in Australia use the water to drink when nothing else is available." ~ Lupe

Our three loaded bikes ata market. Looks like a lot more than we actually carry.

Picture by Rajiv. A wrong turn led us to this doc; I'm glad it did.

Thai boats are a snap shot artist's dream. Colorful, still, plenty of detail, worn in...I could look at these images all day.

It sounds bad. It doesn't sound like something a cyclist ought to do. But, as I've come to reason, that is because we do things much differently in the West when someone dies. Yes, we crashed a Thai funeral. Music, food, and kindness to complete strangers on a bike; it's how I want to go out. Buy the kids new clothes, buy some Tequila for the adults, I want there to be a party when my time comes...

Funeral food. I'd feel bad, but they were more than happy to feed us travelers. As soon as we finished a plate, they'd just bring out another!

And what's a funeral without a band?

Photo by Rajiv. Short cuts? We don't do short cuts in this team! 

Chris has gotten the short end of the stick as of late. A lost GPS, back pain, a seat post clamp that won't do it's job, torn shorts, blunted rear cassette teeth, and now a broken chain. We're checking in with him since leaving the pack, he's doing much better now.

To: The best Mom in the world. May you enjoy your retirement but never truly retire from your passion. 

Hey, it's the rainy season here! You wouldn't know it - still damn hot durring the day. Though every once and a while we do get a massive downpour. Time towhip out the cards boys, we're going to be here a while.

The beach! You smell like the beach!

Abandoned and beautiful horizons. Pitch a tent, build a home, sell some fish, live a happy life.

One of the more fancy rooms we had the privilege to sleep in a monetary. A king's furnishings. 

We didn't get settled in for long before Vera Pong, the head monk here, paid the cycling travelers a visit. He showed us pictures of his family, we showed him pictures of ours. We talked without words the whole night before he left, and then returned. Before we went to bed, he graced us with a gift, one for each. 

A medallion keepsake. Can't buy this anywhere, it's literally priceless. Breakfast and blessings by a Thai monk? Check.

The temple outside our room.

Mountain temples.

Lonely boat.

Lonely boats.

Mmmmm. Now, I  staying away from bread these days, it might be an allergy thing. This is my exception. Fried dough with sugar and condensed milk. One toothpick so get your own!

Aaaaaaaaaaooooooooowwweeewww!

That's right - yours truly is at the head of the pack. So what to do when I get to town? Rest up and wait for my mates!

Cardboard shopping icons have always been attracted to me, can't shake 'em. They keep smuggling up next to me, they're relentless!

Buuuuuuuuuuzzzzzzzz. Conclusion of bike conversation: I can understand the complexities of economic diversities - but shouldn't there be a universal standard price for hair cuts? The labor is the same, so are the tools and demand. Whether in America or Uzbekistan, a buzz cut is still a buzz cut. 

Fresh mango salad is to die for. A word to the brave: don't say anything to your chef and the lovely woman will make the salad extra spicy for ya.

Riverside temple for the night, anyone?

You think our room looks grand from the outside....

...yes, we actually stayed here and slep quite comfortably for free.

The legendary three faced elephant. 

In scale, this statue is massive! It blocked out the sun. 

That's it for now folks! We continue on riding towards the golden Buddhas (which are misrecognitions, really).

My sixth month milestone has passed recently and though I am having the time of my life, I miss having some place to come home to and call my own. I've buggeted for another six months, so well see. Ill have to work abroad eventually, Berkely wants its money back. There are numerous work opportunities to jump on, and grad schools too. I am however hesitant to jump too early. One day at a time. 

Love,

-A