Japan - Kyushu Day 4, Unusualness

What was that sound just outside my tent? It was something crawling, something small. It sounded as if whatever it was, that it wanted to nibble on the side of my tent for breakfast. Can you blame him? Still unsure, I started my day.

Although I still not sure what munching sound had brought me consciousness that morning, there were plenty of ear-worm type bugs in the morning grass. Many birds savoring them as I unzipped the front flap of my polymer mansion.

Supper jealous of a friend's blueberry banana milkshake back in the States, I ate this mild substitute for breakfast. Not the same as a protein shake but pretty good! Anything with bananas for breakfast is a win =)

I had passed out last night just beyond the city streets of Kitakyushu, planing to cycle more country today than yesterday. Instead, I was aimed straight towards Fukaoka, Japan's sixth largest city. 

Well, since I'm here. First things first, I hit up the tourist information booth at the mail railway station to make the giggling girls uncomfortable wearing my cycling short cut spandex among plenty of professionally dressed business people. Not really. But I did want a large map of Kyushu and I got it. 

After some beer and a sandwich lunch, I left. The city has lots of charm but I was eager to get back on the road. Some people have trouble eating out alone. I don't. Some people feel uncomfortable going out to the movies alone. I don't. Some people would prefer explore a city and it's museums with a friend, I know I do.

So, I was off again, this time South.

I made my way here to Dazaifu. This Tenmangu Temple is among Kyotos most famous because it stands in honor of Michizane, an outstanding scholar turned politician, turned outcast.

Michizane was a noticed post by the age of eleven, and showed remarkae talents in academia in years before. None the less to say Michizane was fast tracked into power. Unfortunately, jealousy and rivalries within the imperial courts resulted in his exile from Kyoto to here in Dazaifu. Soon after his banishment, Kyoto suffered a whirl of natural disasters in the following years. Many blamed his enemies.

Now the shrine, built on his tomb, is a pilgramage sight for many people, especially students praying to pass their entrance exams.

This statue, is assured to guarantee your test success should you rub the bulls horns and nose.

Still averaging 35° durring the day, it was time for some cool-me-downs. Next to the rare chocolate walnut candy apple I enjoy down by Fisherman's Warf, and those apricot fruit snaks rolled in coconut on 24th and Valencia, snow cones are my go to sweet tooth snak. 

So Andrés, you visited a temple, saw some cool city, rode 121 km, and are a snow cone - what's so unusual about that? Why the title? 

First, I came across these overly happy, excuisitly pink bunny rabits all lines up in the foreground of a nasty, dark, dank, and rusted metal works shop. Their errie faces and military like formation against such a dark shed made me think they were up to no good...

Almost immediately after the bunnies I found this gem. What to make of it? He's obviously punching himself, in the lower half, smiling, thinking blank thought bubbles while a rainbow emerges to his right. If you had to guess, what is this albino gorilla thinking? 

This one takes the cake. No words, just look at it and wonder....

Ok! I'm off again! Tomorrow looks like a short ride from Saga to Nagasaki but also light rain - hopefully the weather will be cool!

Much Love,

-A

Japan - Kyushu Day 3, Longest Day, Earliest Night

I was hopping today would cool off a bit, the sun is relentless these last few days. Upper 30's to be expected. Oh well, it's what I get for traveling in July/August.

No matter the temperature, and yes, it was already hot in the morning, it's hard to be upset about anything when this sight greets you first thing when you open your tent.

I rushed over to some public art next to my camp sight to grab this image. I'm happy with it.

This one's my favorite. The reflected beam of light over the water intensifies the feeling of the day's heat; that the sun is punishing in it's radiance. 

On hot days, I really enjoy two things: daydreaming about swimming in rivers, and cresting a large hill knowing the iminant down breeze will cool my body. 

This pic I snapped while riding down hill, I had to break and climb back up a bit. For old as Japan is, I haven't seen any old timey bridges like this one. 

This might not be the prettiest picture - but it's the best idea I've had in a while. 

When you throw a party, people show up with beer or wine or hard liquer, etc. Red wine you can leave out, liquer too, and the beer goes in the ice box. Inevitably, more ice must be bought. But in Japan, the ice is free! Yes, it's true. I guess it took me having a few gatherings at my home to notice this. Now on the road, I simply walk into any grocery store with two palmed water bottles, walk right past the registers to the ice dispenser, fill up, smile, say "thank you very much," walk out, and presto! Cold water for the day =)

Big lunch for the day, it had to be done. That's a raw egg up top to scramble and use as a dipping "sauce" for the beef. Yum! I needed the protein. Vegetables. And the miso

soup (how did I order this?!) came with bacon in it!! Talk about how bacon makes everything better, I'll never doubt that saying again =)

Didn't eat here, but I've been compiling a mental list as to (narcissistic warning) why 1986 is the best; should any future conversation happen to take place where I would have to defend my birth year. So far I have Chernobyl (ok, not a great start but it's significant), it's the year The Dark Night and Watchmen (Comics) was released, and now add to the list Big Bear's Pizza. 

Green light cycle ways.

Bike path.

I almost spent the night here. As a matter of fact, this picture is after I had put my bags on again. Why? Because there where thunderclouds in the sky. They seemed far off and I saw some lightning strikes in the distant hills. I figured no big deal - until one came REALLY close. So I made a mental tally: open water in the near by river conducts electricity, they say never be in an open field, I was under a metal pole. Ok, time to get the f@&k outta here! 

Heading indoors is always best when in a thunder "storm" so I hit a supermarket and picked up some snaks. All for the better, I found a park on the way. This bruised banana tastes so sweet it makes me want banana bread!

Somehow, I cycled my longest day (I'm throwing some extra km onto what google says here because it's never the extract route that I take due to bypasses and missed turns and city explorations), yet put up tent and everything earlier that I have the last two days. 

Final thoughts of the day: I sure am moving faster than if I were with big sis or Chris, Steve, Rajiv, or Yoshi, but it's not the same. Good times come with friends.

Goodnight, 

-A

Japan - Kyushu Day 2, Slow Start, Big Payoff

Yeah, I didn't sleep great, but I slept. I has half anxious to get a good start because I wasn't sure when the ferry would leave, and nothing kills my day like unnecessary waiting. So, 5:00am and here I am.

The upside to an early wake up call is I caught this mountain sunrise just after I packed up and set out.

I only had to cycle a quick 10 minutes to the ferry terminal, where I was to learn that I had arrived two hours too early; the first boat wouldn't depart until 8:00am. So much for avoiding unnecessary waiting. 

I thought about doubling back and catching some breakfast in town but forwent the first meal to research Kyushu island. Sitting in the ticket office, wouldn't you know it, this little guy came up to me.  

And then his whole family joined in. The ticketing both would open soon, they must be expecting food from the conveniently placed bowel.

Reading, research, and catching up on friend's blogs, the ferry finally came. It wasn't very crowded, as you may imagine, for a Monday morning. I had plenty of room to stretch my legs.

Oh, and that these boats let you lay down rather than sit is a great way to travel. I snagged a pillow, found a big open space, sprawled out, and passed out. Some one asked me after, "you don't get sick?" I guess I don't.

The steel mandible.

Once on Kyushu I felt north would be my best bet. The island is known for it's onsens and there happens to be a town just far away enough to make it a day. The ferry didn't actually arrive until 11:45am so I'd have to hustle a bit. No worries, I'm heading for the coast.

Along the way I had to pass through a shitty tunnel. Not literally, thank god. But it was tight and narrow. Just enough to squeeze my bike and me between the curved cold walls of concrete and the semi trucks speeding in the dark.

I have plenty of back calf pedal scrapes, if you've ever had to do the same.  

Up and down and tight turns decents. It all makes for a hungry cyclist. Here was my only real meal of the day if you don't (I don't) count the yogurt, fruit, or popcorn snack stops. 

It's one of my favorite things to eat in Japan although the spice could be higher. CoCoCurries was such a staple in my sister and my diet that is sent her home some curry packets. She loved it.

And so I arrive in Beppu, 94km away from where I began in Saiki.

With air in my tires and food in my belly, it was off to scout for tent space and this legendary onsen at the top of LonelyPlanet online recommendations. 

When I did arrive, I stumbled on to the trifecta of locations. The onsen is only one block away from the coast, and happen to cost only 100¥! Side note: yes, the onsen was so good. I haven't been to one in so long (non in Tosa city) that the healing effects were immediate! All of a sudden my body felt alive again, and my slight headache was gone. New legs and back for a buck? Can't beat it.

Then, just moving down to the coast, is a big park perfect for camping. Toilets? Check. Bushes and hedges? Check. Nice and quiet? Ok, not so much but I'm a heavy sleeper. And to too it all off, a convenience store here too. What a night.

Tent is up and eyelids are down. Tomorrow's a new day, new adventures.

Love,

-A

Japan - Kyushu Day 1, I Forgot How Much I Hate Mosquitos

My father always said you can love people, not things. I understood what he meant, and I beleive the opposite holds conversely true. I don't hate my bike when it's unresponsive. Yet I wonder, animals are not people, and I would hesitate to call them "things" too. Well, whatever the case, I'm telling you now that I really, really hate mosquitos. The two months spent living indoors on the third floor has made me forget this, and now, right now, they hum annoyingly around me while I type. It's the sound of an iminant insect attack if not for the thin layer of mesh fabric that is my tent.  

But, let's start on a more positive note.

The day started early with a final look over my things, rolling my panniers closed and hauling them downstairs to be fastened on my bike. It's been really hot as of late, like 35-39° so I'm rolling the dice and forgoing the sleeping bag this time; let's hope that one doesn't come back to bite me.

August is summer break in Japan, and this teacher ain't staying at home. The island of Kyushu is calling my name; it is the next island south west of Shikoku. What's the plan? Just go and see what we see. Today was 123km exactly, which is a clean way to start the trip =)

Plenty of mountains to climb on day one, you just can't escape them on Shikoku. And hopefully on Kyushu either.

What a good omen, ran into a fellow cyclist on Day 1! Although we are traveling in the same direction, we are going to different end points. Akira is heading further south before cycling back up the east side of Shikoku, and I'm cutting west and island hopping. Still we knocked out a few km before splitting ways. He's hitting all the big and small points. As it happens, I'm catching him at the end of his solo trip, he should be home for the first time in two years after another week of traveling. He seemed really happy about it.

Coast rider.

Yes, you can't see all to well but I assure you - this is tide pool heaven. No access point however, what's up with that Japan? 

The sun sets behind the port I will ferry out from tomorrow morning. 

At least the flying encephalitis daemons are only active at dusk and dawn, the humming of mosquito wings has now faded. As is my energy. I'm excited as hell to be back on the road, it's adventurous, serene, and challenging. More challenging without a goodnight a rest, buenas noches. 

Much Love,

-A

Japan - New Friends

So I'm typing up things for my Kyushu blog and I would hate to even begin that journey without mentioning some of the cycling highlights which have occurred over the last two months. Here we go.

You remember Go, we cycled Mt. Fuji together! He must have caught the bug for high inclinations because he's entered his name to compete in a scored uphill race! Way to go, Go!

Ahh Yoshi. He's been traveling clockwise across Shikoku, completing the 88 temple pilgrimage. A few weeks back he made his way to temples 34, 35, and 36 in my town of Tosa. He, of course, stayed a few nights so we could properly celebrate the reunion =)

At every temple you can collect these individual signatures from the monks who live there. Moreover, it ensures a steady flow of cash into the temples. It's a feat to write Japanese calligraphy and very interesting to watch.

Just so happens that Yoshi was around for one of my school's end of term parties - so I invited him and we declared him the guest of honor.

The self proclaimed 2am convince store bought beer after party. 

Of course Yoshi's visit was not all drinking and reminiscing, I accompanied him to the temples - which were my first time too.

Temple gardens. Very well done. Can you spot the moat?

After which we took to the beach because one doesn't live by the water and miss the sand and sun. 

Another few days and Yosh is off again. He's still got about twenty temples to go to. Maybe, just maybe we'll catch each other on Kyushu.

Next up is Akkun. He's my local post office clerk turned cycling pall. Literally, he noticed my glove tan and ask, "you ride?" I said I do and we started planning a trip. Little did I know I had just made friends with the sprinter on the Kochi city cycling team! 

Our trip ended up being a really nice long cycle through some nature paths. We ended up here, at an overlooked cave that carried fresh drinking water.

Wouldn't be a ride if we didn't go out of out way to climb this one hill before heading home. Phew! 

A few days later Akkun invited some friends because they heard how much I love takoyaki, and we had a small party.

Moritz and Rina are two Swizz cycling Japan for as long as they can. They send me a request via warm showers and I had to accept - my first guests! As you can see, they're packing light! Three (big) bags between them!

What to do but to sucker them into following me up the steepest street in town. 

Good job - they earned that sweat! 

Thanks to all the cool people I've met, there will be more to come! If you're currious or want to see more pics, check out their blogs at:

Yoshi:

http://www.peace-journey.jp/wordpress/

Moritz and Rina:

http://reniundmoritz.blogspot.com/

Love,

-A