Japan Exodus - Day 12: The Final Leg

We scrambled around in the dark last night. We just couldn't find a place to camp in the rain. The fact that neither of us have been to this city before, and not to mention the rain, was not doing us any favors. We tried an arcade, thought about a government building stairs, and even a park gazebo. Nothing really worked out. We did come, after a good cycle in the rain, to ask around for this elusive rest area. Once Kyle asked and got directions, we found ourselves too happy with the area. Funny how traveling can make you appreciate the simple things in life, like a roof.

We where too happy to have some shelter for the night, we underestimated the storm that fell from above. Our spirits wet and dampened, we found some joy in spotting a few other climate refugees hiding out in the general area (we were in a huge covered public seating space).

And there was this one bike in the corner that had all the markings of a touring cyclist. Not that they're hard to spot, any bags with a bike is pretty much a sure sign. Strange thing was that the cyclist was no where in sight. Maybe went out for a coffee or something. 

Kyle had enough of the sweat and grime from cycling, and decided to take an onsen. I weighed my options between getting warm in the hot water, and having to cycle yet again in the rain. If you don't know by now, I absolutely hate riding in the rain. So, I opted to stay put. And it's a good thing I did since Kyle returned two minutes later with a flat tire. I watched our things and did some reading while Kyle walked to the onsen in the rain. 

Still, no sign of our cycling guest. Even after that amazing dinner and after setting up camps and sleeping bags had the cyclist still not returned to the bike. Currious. 

In the morning time, we noticed that the bike had been moved to take advantage of an electrical outlet. Obviously the cyclist had come in the night and moves the bike, but how strange that again s/he was no where to be seen.

Finally, after we were getting ready to patch Kyles rear tire, does this man come back to his bike and start arranging his belongings. Naturally, I walked up and we ended up talking for a good hour on what he has been doing. Apparently, he is somewhere around day 200 of his cycling tour around Japan. Cool enough guy, his bike was packed to the brim and he didn't even have a tent! 

You can see his blog here:

Http://tappoi.com

Further along in the morning the rain had still not completely let up. So, we patched Kyles tube and got our things ready to go so that when the rain finally gave in, we'd be ready to go. 

A grandmother type working the rest area's kitchen stopped by to talk with us and advised we dry our wet clothes from the previous night at the coin-op laundry around the courier. Excellent suggestion, I said in my most polite Japanese, and so we did.

Not more than five minutes after we return from drying out clothes does the grandmother return with a full breakfast spread! No joke, she just lays all this food on us (a seperate three sandwiches for Kyle too, keep in mind), asks us to be careful, smiles, and returns to her post somewhere inside the kitchen after we give our most best thank yous to her and for the food. 

Just look at these sandwiches! She really hooked us up with breakfast this morning and it was totally unexpected. Since it was all wrapped and ready to go, I suppose I could have kept it, or some, or just one sandwich, for breakfast. But I didn't. Ate the three right there as if there were a time limit.  

The final ride out, the final leg of our two man group was on and over before I knew it. Not that we expected ti to be anything but quick, a mere 50km or so into Sukumo where we would say good bye. When we arrived to that town I knew so well from my Kyushu, Korean, and vacation travels, I absolutely knew just what to do. I introduced Kyle to the camp site we would later pitch our tents, returned to the one of two stores around, got some cold tall boys of beer, and cheered to a well ten or so days of travel. 

Kyle really did make a good companion. Open and flexible to schedule changes and decision, frugal but not when it came to food, and an over all positive attitude.  

May sound a little weird to you, but sometimes I catch myself just admiring my bike. Like a good husband to his wonderful wife; I suppose that is the same kind of look. I really appreciate all the things this bike has given me. 

After a few good beers, we got hungry and took on a new restaurant in town. If you don't know tonkatsu, its essentially chicken fried pork with a special sauce. And if you don't know "Nabe" its a word in Japanese that references the clay pot. Colloquially, "nabe" means the stew/soup you eat out of the clay pot. I had never actually seen tonkatsu nabe before on any menu, so when I glanced upon it, I know that is what I would feast on for this last meal. 

I dare you to take a closer look and not get hungry!

And after dinner, we set up camp. Well, we bought a six pack of beer first, and then went to go set up camp. It was the last night, so we celebrated big time...by extending our bed times to 10:30pm. Actually, that is pretty late all things considered. We had fun, talked on all kids of topics, sometimes reflecting on the best highlights of the trip. Not to reminisce in nostalgia but to appreciate the times. Before long, I was having a hard time keeping my eyes open. Took a last bathroom break, set my alarm so as to not miss my ferry tomorrow, and said goodnight. As exactly what I will do with you now.

Much love,

-A