Japan Exodus - Day 27: A Couple of Detours

I am still in shock some days when I get up those first few moments in the morning, taking in the fact that I am actually in Japan. The feeling is lovely most days. I get a kick out of the most mundane tasks: yeah, I have to walk to the store to buy ketchup, but I'm buying ketchup in freaking Japan!!

One of the reasons that this feeling, that feeling of excitement on the first day of school, is because Japan keeps surprising me. After cycling through the shaky grounds that was the middle of Kyushu, I found an awesome place to hang my helmet for the night, and actually fall asleep inside for once. Which, is nice I must say, if only because I don't have to build and pack my tent for once. 

What a cool little place huh? And completely deserted! Not that I wouldn't mind another soul. The hours you spend inside your own head are very meditative, and you often find solutions to problems you did not even realize you had. Those hours can wear on one's self though. That is why when you find one of us at a rest stop or inn or whatever sort of public space this is, we are more than happy to talk and use your vocal chords for a change. 

Not exactly a talking buddy, but the company is welcomed. 

And about the time that this cat and I made good friends, and I went out to get my laptop from my bike and brought it back to the tatami lined resting space...another earthquake hit. This one did not last as long, but it was strong. The leaflets shook out of their holding spaces, the tables wobbled and danced side to side across the floor, the walls cracked. The shake was not an aftershock, I know. This was no little tremor, and even a siren came on to warm everyone with necessary information. I couldn't understand some of what was being relayed. 

And what did our feline friend do? S/he licked her/himself and looked up at me with an expression that meant, "So, is it time for dinner yet?"

Dinner would have to wait. I changed my mind about sleeping inside today, and that was not an easy decision to make. The mountains are cold, especially up here. The idea of sleeping inside where it was warmer had me all psyched up! But, that warmth also came with the hazard of beams falling over my head in the dead of night, so between these two trees is where I camped for the cold night. 

The night came and went without incident. This is totally selfish of me, yet I was upset that there had not been. If there was another quake or after shock, my sleeping outside could be reasonable. That there was not, makes me feel like I missed out on sleeping peacefully inside. Well, you know what they say. Hindsight is always 20/20; I made the best decision I could with the information and circumstance at hand. 

For two reasons. I needed a little cheering up. That fatigue I am always telling you about is catching up with me a bit, and aside from a short 60km day, I have not really had any breaks since getting off that boat to Kagoshima city. Now a good month into since leaving my home sweet home in Tosa, I get to, for the first time in a long time, eat all I can eat bbq. And that my family and friends, can't do but one thing; put a huge smile on my face. 

What you are actually seeing here is a big plate of meet, curry and rice, some miso soup, and about 12 pieces of shrimp, tuna, and salmon sushi.

Second portions of meat! Did I mention this is all I can eat? I skipped breakfast today too, funny how things work out sometimes; freaking hilarious.

Mmmm, ice cream for dessert. There are all kinds of flavors and I wanted to try them all. Would have too if not for my stomach reaching near capacity. Still though, the ice cream is a nice touch to a belly full of yummy. 

Oh, did I mention this was all you can eat?! Love these joints, I really put the Japanese politeness to task on days like today. I think too, or I aspire to, put the restaurant in a little debt after this meal. Thats something I could be secretly proud of. 

And with that kind of protein in my belly, I was able to pull off a really good cycling day. So much so that I enjoyed a little detour. I took a very off my route side rode to enjoy the country today. The sun was out, the clouds were not, the birds where chirping all the way, and the wind was not pushing me back though it was not pushing me forward either. 

What the wind did do was play with the brush in this field. If you happened to stop and watch this patch of agriculture, you could see how its rows and columns swayed in slight unison to each other, all obeying the whims of the wind and which direction it cared to orchestrate them. Very fun to watch, like one of those optical illusion posters form the 90's.  

A little set back happened from taking this detour. I was supposed to keep along this quiet rode until I met back up with the highway to take me north again. Trouble was, the highway rested on the other side of a mountain, and the way through was through this toll way. Bikes are not allowed on toll ways. I know this because I tried to sneak on once, and the police quickly stopped me. I learned my lesson. 

So, what to do? I guess I looked lost and a little frustrated because a man emerged from the adjacent building to ask me what I was thinking of doing. I told him I just wanted to meet back up with the main highway to reach the northern part of Fukuoka. The man said that going through here was impossible, that I knew. But he said that if back tracked a little and took the last exit before the toll, that there would be signs for a second detour around the mountain. Not something I would plan but the only option at the moment. So, I did just that. 

The way back was actually quite nice once all the climbing up mountains was done. I got to find this really cool river that reminded me of the river back in Tosa. Just about almost the same. A good feeling rushed over me once I saw it. 

Somewhere along the way I got tired and decided to camp out for the night. This spot is not ideal, not where I wanted to spend the night but I still have a little more ways to go because of the detours to get off of Kyushu. I am certainly enough north now that the quakes are no longer a threat at all, that is worth mentioning. 


The rest stop is mostly all concrete and pavement, no real grassy spot to lay down a tent on, so I built my house behind a closed flower stand that smelled amazing. And that is how I fell asleep for the night, smelling the roses.

Rosebud love,
-A