Sunday, April 10, 2016

Japan Exodus - Day 13: Splitting Ways, Splitting Headache


No two ways about it, the beers and fun of last night left me with a little headache. No room for complaints though. I had made a rough time schedule in my head, knowing that if I left on the ferry this morning to Kyushu, that I would have about three days to do another 350km down to the next ferry that would carry me into Okinawa where my overall goal of cycling South to North across Japan would finally start. And I had to make that second ferry, since a trip to Okinawa is only available once or twice a week by ferry.

On the other hand, I wasn't trying to think about the far off future (and when you're traveling by bike, four or five days down the line really is far off) and tried to keep in the present. After all, these were the last moments and eventual split off with Kyle. Not bad for a first run, he should be fine going home alone over the next couple days.


If you go and and look at my blog (click here) and you'll see that I camped here last year. A really cool and old unused stage that provided way too more cover than we needed but happily accepted. Hey! We even ran into an old friend, a cyclist who we met on the first day of our trip out of Toyō town, and here he meets us at the end. What's more, he was traveling in the opposite direction and still we met by accident on our first and now last day. Believe in coincidence if you want, but you're on your own.

Well, I said my goodbyes to Kyle and thanked him for everything. He told me that I was mistaken, that he should thank me for showing him the fun of cycle-touring and adventure. I kindly reminded him again that we're always learning. I too am making adjustments.


And here I am once again. Single, on my bike, about to cross that body of water that I know so well. I've taking this ride so many times that my hangover did not even impede my ability to follow ticket and boarding procedures.

Was a little sad, to tell the truth. This route is like a good friend that I know I'll likely not see again. Until tomorrow when I take on new roads and routes, these familiar paths through Shikoku have all felt this way. Sad to see them for the last time, but full of good memories.


Waiting on the boat. Typical. A few people on board, nothing much to do for the two and a half hours but rest.


View from the window just behind me. Nothing spectacular, unless you count that mountain region far to the south. That's the South-Western tip of Shikoku. A place Ashizuri. A wonderful place to visit, a great shot for my last sight of my home island.


Ahh, traditions. Every time I get off that ferry boat and arrive in Saiki, Oita prefecture on Kyushu, the first thing I do is go to visit my friends who own a ramen shop just down the way behind an alley.


Just an old mom and pop shop, but oh so delicious! And what's better than tan tan men (spicy ramen) if not cool people? So not Japanese, the old man will come from behind the counter and sit with me, ask me where I am going and how long I'll be. Japanese people are really proud of certain types of people, travelers being among the top. It's not envy or jealousy, rather admiration and respect. To travel around by bike? People are always amazed to here it, no matter how many times I tell the story. Such is the case with this old couple, whose grandson I feel like, getting a good strong meal in at home before smiles and good luck waves of encouragement follow me as I start turning my wheels and reorient my direction south.


I am excited today. I always shoot west across Kyushu, or North into Beppu where the onsens and beaches await me. But today it's south, and I'm excited to explore the roads and see what there is to see, uninterrupted.

I did get a late start, the ferry dropped me off in the afternoon and after lunch it was about 3pm. No point in setting up camp, I took off without really knowing where I was going to sleep. Something will come around I said, usually does.

And that's when my hangover said, "you're not going too far today." A really bad headache caught on half way into my ride, and I think that an onigiri that a man gifted to me might have had a spoiled pickled plum inside. I don't know. Either way, I started dragging my feat and aiming for a rest stop that seemed as if it took all afternoon to get to.

At the end of today, I feel pretty bad. I took a cat nap in the shade on a bench and my headache subsided a bit. By the time night fell and my hangover gave into hunger, I realized that I had only eaten a bowl of soup and a bad onigiri all day. Normal hunger set in, then the cyclist's hunger set in.

In the tent, I just had to deal with my rumbling stomach. I dreamt of nabe, I dreamt of burritos, pizza, okonomiyaki, and American BBQ. I dreamt, and that's about all I could do.

Love,
-A

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