Day two of five in Okinawa and there came warning of a small storm coming our way, a man told me in the morning as I started to pack my things. Mostly, the storm looks to go around the main island here, we'll likely get hit with a little more rain, but the government wont begin to shut down ships or anything like that, I'm ok.
Today, if it is that I want enough time to spend a day at the beach and have time to cycle home to meet my ferry on time, will have to be a beach hunt day. That means going off the road and checking out small patches of sand, listing to the locals on any recommendations, and following my instincts. Get ready beaches, I'm coming for you!
Or not, hahah. Well, I can wait out this storm a little bit. Should not be long.
A ha! In the morning time I finally was able to get away from all the modernities and find some shrubbery. Still not where I want to be, but the long break of green between buildings indicates to me that I am going the right way, so I am happy.
Of course the roads are so nice to cycle across, and the wet pavement makes for a really smooth ride. The wind was not exactly to my back, I could feel it all around me, pushing me in all directions as I winded around the corners, up and over the small island hills. The sun hid slightly behind the few remaining post storm clouds and yet I could feel the intense heat on my arms, neck and legs. These are the conditions to manage wisely. Even though the sun is not out in full force as it might be on that perfect summer's day, you can still ring up a pretty gnarly tan if you are not careful.
Two green boat houses in the middle of the sea. The explanation of their purpose still escapes me. I believe them to be fishing boat houses, not some place where people actually live. But, maybe I am wrong.
Took a small break along the windy coast to admire the next section of road up ahead. I don't carry food with me often, though I should. Some snacks or fruit at a time like this would be really choice. The water I can see off the walkway here is stellar. Looks warm and clear, like you might imagine. Probably has not had any feet touch upon its immaculate sand particles in decades. I wonder....
A small hour of rain interrupted my travels again. I was cycling a good patch of road when the sprinkling started and I decided that it was not that bad, so I pushed on down the road. A few moments later thicker droplets started to "tick" the top of my helmet and the road. The sound of the falling water is a good sign that it may be time to look for cover. I picked up the pace a bit, and found a little shelter just as the rain really came down to drench every exposed thing in sight. Phew!
This picture is something I would never think to see in Japan, and demonstrates the demeanor of island life. I don't want to say "Japanese people" are this way or that way, because everyone is different. The "Japanese way/style" or what has come to be expected, is something else completely and much more consistent. This kind of parking is not the Japanese way and I don't think we would see it anywhere in a big city. Heck, I don't think I have ever seen it, even in small cities.
The rain stopped as I knew it would. The little break was well welcomed. As soon as I returned to my bike and began the hunt for my kind of beach, that place where I could stay uninterrupted for a good day or so, was back on.
A good first shot at a place to camp came quickly after the rain. A big, open beach where I had plenty of space to camp. I marked it on my map and continued on. There was nice sand and water here, but I didn't feel this place to be the one...
You can see here that the main strips of shopping centers and restaurants have given way to more greenery. Even the tennis courts must be built among them, surrounded by the bushes and trees that I image have come to crowd up against the wire fence, and who would soon overtake the court on the day that there is no one there to trip them away again.
Another good choice! Now I am finding some beaches more to my liking. The beaches are getting better and better, I think I will push my luck and see if I cant find something more...
Hitting the coast now, I have not seen another soul on foot or by bike in a long time. The locals are all at work, and the tourists are all at designated beaching and swimming areas. I keep finding cool places to relax and camp, although the day is still somewhat young. There may be chance of rain, but I fell good and will cycle up a little more!
Another good choice, would not have any problems with this....
A ha!! Eureka! This is it!! This is all I am looking for; the trifecta! A small patch of sand and grass, littered with shade by the tropical trees, a nice view straight into the ocean where a shallow decent of sand allows you to walk for a good while into the water before your knees get wet. There is a restaurant with food just a ten minute walk from here, and a store where I can find some beer and snacks for those intermediate times when you really want to relax take in the moment.
This is too perfect, I am beside myself. Cars off and far enough away that I can not see or hear them, a good breeze of wind to brush up against my skin without granules of sand invading every orifice. I can pitch my tent early without worrying about anyone noticing and prompting me to disassemble it. I have found the place to live out the rest of my time here. Now my biggest concern will be to spend my time writing, drawing, listening to music and pod-casts, deducing images from clout shapes, wondering with my eyes closed, or what kind of beer I want to drink. Not a bad vacation form vacationing.
I took on the walk after setting everything up and took in the local restaurant. I made friends with the cooks who where a little hesitant to speak with me, until I told them I was cycling around Okinawa and camping just down the way. They were, of course, familiar with the beach I had chosen and congratulated me. When it came time to order, I asked for the recommendation. I was given some hot sauce and the lucky number 13. This could either be a very good decision, or a very bad one...
Turned out to be an awesome meal! Okinawa style "soba" noodles although they look a little different than what I was expecting. The tempura on the side was top notch, you just cant beat fresh tempura, the flakiness of a recently deep fried vegetable cluster or potato is a texture that just cant be duplicated in any way. Eat fresh or go home. The soup itself was equally good, and I did use the hot sauce they gave me for a little extra kick. Hot soup and tempura is not something that I would have chosen to order on such a hot and humid day, but then again the meal was so good that I did not mind at all. If the weather gets cold tonight, I don't imagine I will have any problem sleeping in shorts right underneath the stars, I feel all warm and tingly.
And that is where my spirit stayed all night, warm and tingly. I had already set up camp, so I plopped down on the grass besides my tent and looked up at the changing sky as the emerging starts looked back at me. At first there were only five, and soon more and more came out to be seen. I was happy to be far away from any major light pollution and enjoy the twinkling of the night sky. That is one thing I miss of living in the country side back in Tosa - after ten PM, there was nothing out to distract you from the majesty of the night sky on a clear night. On those nights, when the clouds took a break from floating around, you couldn't couldn't all the stars you could see. They out numbered anything you could imagine, like counting all the flower petals in an open field.
Thats it for tonight, tomorrow has a big huge question mark all over it. "No schedule" as the popular phrase is. Lazy is not the right word to describe it at all; rather fulfilling, I predict.
Love,
-A
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